Exploring Meteora is not just about the mind-boggling ancient monasteries monks created on mountaintop cliffs. It’s also about the adventure you’ll have getting to them!
My last travel blog covered magnificent Meteora and its history. ⇒ Magnificent Meteora – Castles in the Clouds. In this episode, we’ll climb up to and visit the unique monasteries.
Planned months before, our full day to be in Meteora fell on a Wednesday–when two of the six monasteries are closed. So we visited the other four. I pre-booked a tour guide (details below) for the first two monasteries, and we opted to go at our own pace visiting the last two. Seeing them in person made for a special, unforgettable day!
A little history recap. . .
Ascetic monks originally journeyed to Meteora in the 11th century seeking solitude, spiritual reflection, and a sacred place to worship. They made their homes up in hermitage caves and lived in isolation.
When Ottomans began conquering the Byzantine Empire in the 14th century, more monks sought safety in the remote Meteora rocks. Monks climbed to the clifftops and established 26 working monasteries— six of which are still open today.
Faithful monks, who had to become craftsmen and masons, impressively built multiple-story monasteries by hand with selfless sacrifice and primitive tools. Materials had to be carried up the rocks using hand-made ladders, ropes, nets, and baskets.
Approximately 50 nuns and 17 monks live in Meteora monasteries today. It’s a solitary, ascetic way of life. They follow the rules of purity, obedience, and lack of property.
Through the years and when the world was at war, they’ve been a refuge for nearby communities, supported freedom fighters, and helped the persecuted.
World War II and the German/Italian occupation of Meteora was devastating. Kalambaka was burned to the ground by the Nazis. When World War II ended, only four monasteries were active. Today, tourism helps monasteries continue to care for those in need, upkeep properties, and protect priceless artifacts.
Know the rules so you won't miss the fun!
Plan ahead! The season and day(s) of the week you choose can make a difference in your Meteora experience.
♦ Each monastery charges €3 (three Euros), cash only, and has it own opening and closing hours depending on the season (winter or summer). Kids 12 and younger visit for free.
♦ Five monasteries are closed one or more days a week, but all are open (and crowded) on weekends. St. Stephen’s closes for lunch. An updated schedule is posted below for both winter and summer timetables.
♦ No photography is allowed in any of the monastery churches (katholikons), chapels and most museums.
♦ Dress code: Men must wear long pants and cover their shoulders. No shorts or hats are allowed. Women must wear dresses or skirts to the knee and cover shoulders. Note: We wore pants. Meteora monasteries provide skirts to borrow (except Varlaam), but they are not guaranteed in peak season. Our guide brought skirts!
When you’re ready for a challenge, below are the six monasteries with tips to get to each entrance. One main road meanders through Meteora linking all the sacred monasteries.
Varlaam - Finding the Entrance *
From the parking area, visitors will cross a bridge, then climb almost 200 steps to the summit. Varlaam was the first monastery we explored after meeting our guide.
(Below) Bridge to Varlaam with a view of the uphill climb
The Holy Monastery of Varlaam
Varlaam from the sunset rock.
Meteora’s second largest monastery is named after its founder, an ascetic monk named Varlaam. He climbed the cliff around 1350 AD, lived in a cave, and built a chapel (dedicated to the Three Hierarchs) on top of the rock pillar.
After Varlaam died, his efforts were abandoned for almost 200 years. Two monk brothers from Ioannina (Theophanis and Nektarios), discovered the chapel in 1517 and inhabited the deserted caves.
They founded a monastery, and spent over 20 years getting materials to the rock summit so they could build the new church dedicated to All Saints in 1541.
Beautiful frescoes were added to the main church (katholikon) in 1548 by the painter Franco Catalano. (no photos allowed in churches)
Intricate wood carvings, paintings, and lots of gold can be found in the church vestibule.
Monks originally used a series of wooden ladders to get up to the monastery. With gaps between them, five or six ladders (with about 25 rungs) hung from the rock by wooden pegs. Monks risked their lives jumping from one ladder to another!
Not wine? This huge 16th century oak barrel stored 3,500 gallons of water.
An old tower, with the original rope and net pulley system, was being restored. Equipment is raised electronically today, and monks travel in funiculars. (Below)
Obviously, step outside for stunning Meteora vistas and a pretty Byzantine belltower!
Roussanou - Finding the entrance *
From Kastraki, the nunnery is located between St. Nicholas and Varlaam on the main road. Visitors will climb up about 200 steps through colorful flower gardens and access it via a wooden bridge.
Roussanou was closed the day we visited Meteora monasteries.
The Holy Monastery of Roussanou
Roussanou is one of the prettiest monasteries in Meteora. Its name most likely comes from the monk who first settled on the 1,587-foot rock in 1388.
Two brothers, Ioasaph and Maximos from Ioannina, climbed the Roussanou rock in the early-1500s and found the ruins of an old church. They stayed and organized a monastery between 1527-29.
Although the monastery is dedicated to the Transfiguration, it was also built in memory of Saint Barbara. When Barbara became a Christian and was baptized, her pagan father had her imprisoned and beheaded. Then. . . he was struck dead by a lightening bolt!
The monastery is a three-floor complex. Reception halls, guest quarters, exhibit rooms, and nun workrooms are located on the second and third floors.
Room cells for the monks (now nuns) make up the first floor, along with the main church built in 1527. It’s known for the well-preserved frescoes and gorgeous stained glass.
Since Roussanou was closed the day we visited, I purchased this postcard. No photography is allowed in churches, so here’s a glimpse of the beautiful frescoes we saw in each monastery.
During the Turkish occupation and both World Wars, Roussanou was raided and damaged. Misplaced families from nearby villages took refuge at the monastery. After World War II, it was closed for many years. A nun reopened it and repaired the monastery.
In 1988, it became a nunnery. Our guide told us the friendly nuns give tours, are known for their pretty flower gardens, and sell their honey and other items made and grown on site.
St. Nicholas - Finding the entrance *
Without a guide, St. Nicholas was the fourth and last monastery we visited. From Kastraki village, it’s the first monastery you’ll reach on the main road.
Climbing to the monastery is three-fold. Visitors hike uphill from the parking area, climb 60-or-more steps to the base of the rock (below left), and then climb 100+ steep, vertical steps to the summit (below right).
To catch your breath on the way up, stop at the natural cave dedicated to St. Silouan. A small chapel is dedicated to the monk known for his wise counsel, poetry and published writings.
Holy Monastery of St. Nicholas Anapausas
A trek to the small, 14th century male monastery of St. Nicholas Anapausas is well worth your time! Anapausas means “rest.” For monks or pilgrims passing through Meteora, the monastery provided a safe and pleasant stay.
We weren’t sure if we were alone because of the grueling vertical climb–or the fact that the monastery is so small and humble.
With no room to spread out horizontally on the rock surface, the monastery was built vertically, one level on top of the other. Before steps were carved between floors inside, monks climbed ladders outside from level-to-level.
Interior steps carved out of the rock.
Art lovers make their way to St. Nicholas for the frescoes. The first floor has a tiny chapel with murals and is dedicated to St. Anthony. In the 1500s, the monastery was renovated, and the main church was built on the 2nd floor.
That church boasts some of Meteora’s best frescoes by the Cretan monk painter Theophanes Strelizas, including his famous narthex mural “The Naming of Animals by Adam in Paradise.”
Monks assembled for meals in the dining hall (trapeza) on the third floor.
After centuries as a working monastery, St. Nicholas was abandoned in the early-1900s and further damaged during WWII. Restored in 1961, it closed again for 15 years but reopened in 1997.
When in danger, Monks warned other monasteries with mirrors or smoke signals.
Head outside for an extra bonus of the views, bell tower, plus abandoned monasteries and caves.
St. Stephen's - Finding the entrance *
If steps and climbing are a challenge, you can still visit one monastery, and it’s a good one!
A permanent bridge has replaced the old wooden drawbridge, so the St. Stephen’s entrance is a short walk from the parking area. High above Kalambaka, it’s the last monastery on the road.
Holy Monastery of St. Stephen
St. Stephen’s is one of the oldest monasteries in Meteora.
The monastery is named after Stephen, the first Christian martyr and one of the seven deacons appointed by the apostles. A hermit named Jeremiah was the first to climb and settle on the 1732-foot rock in 1191.
Two monks are official founders. St. Antonios built the first church in the late-1300s after generous funds were donated by a Byzantine emperor who stayed at the monastery. St. Philotheas renovated the monastery in 1545.
Beautiful frescoes were added in the 1600s, and the elaborate wood carvings are some of the most beautifully-preserved in Greece. A new church dedicated to the patron Saint Charalambos was added in the 1700s.
St. Stephen’s has an impressive collection of rare books (over 850) and more than 150 manuscripts. Four vellum folios (6th to 9th c.) contain fragments from the Gospel of Matthew. The beautiful old dining hall is now a museum with incredible relics, manuscripts, and embroidered vestments.
After Ottomans outlawed bells, percussion instruments (semantrons) came into play.
Different wooden and metal semantrons are struck with mallets for many reasons: to call monks and nuns to prayer, to begin new tasks, or to call them to the dining hall.
National events were hard on St. Stephen’s. Relics were looted, and its buildings fell into decay during the Greek Civil War and the two World Wars.
A view of Kalambaka from the Holy Monastery of St. Stephen
In 1961, the monastery became a convent. Ambitious nuns continue to repair and upgrade buildings, maintain gardens, and preserve and restore monastery collections.
Great Meteoron - Finding the entrance *
Great Meteoron Monastery is located in west Meteora on the highest and largest rock. From the parking area, visitors will climb down and then back up through a tunnel and 300+ steep, winding steps. It is always crowded, and long lines form early before the doors open.
Sadly, it was closed the day we visited.
The Holy Monastery of Great Meteoron (Transfiguration)
Great Meteoron, or the Monastery of the Transfiguration, is the largest and oldest monastery. Athanasios was the first monk to climb the steep pillar known as broad rock in 1343 after fleeing from Ottomans.
On that rock, he built a humble hermitage in a cave and sought isolation. Left of the entrance, you can still see the cave which has been made into a chapel.
Athanasios named the rock “Meteoron,” which stands for “suspended in air between heaven and earth” at a height of 2011 feet.
Athanasios and his followers organized the first monastic community in Meteora. His successor, St. Joasaph, and the third founder, Symeon the priest-monk, helped fund the monastery which grew rich and powerful.
Chapels and churches are spread out through the complex, including the large main church dedicated to the Transfiguration of Christ. With a 12-sided dome and unbelievable frescoes, it is considered one of the most magnificent churches in Greece. Some artwork and murals depict the horrifying period when Christians were persecuted by the Ottomans.
The somewhat creepy Ossuary is filled with the skulls of monks who lived at Great Meteoron. Note: This is a postcard I purchased because the monastery was closed.
Many faithful and sacrificial monks never lived to see the monastery completed. They spent more than 20 years getting construction materials to the top and another 30 years to build it.
Highlights are the gorgeous refectory (dining hall) built in 1557 and the kitchen, which was once the old tower and net lift. An ancient two-story infirmary and nursing home (1572) is now a museum for Byzantine icons, monastery treasures, and manuscripts (over 1,000 in the collection).
Great Meteoron is also famous for its vineyards. The first vines were planted in the 1300s.
Holy Trinity - Finding the Entrance *
A long hike down (and then back up) on a rock walkway takes visitors to the base of Holy Trinity. The 140 steps are not the steepest you’ll encounter, but there’s a catch. A giant winding staircase, combined with a series of rock tunnels, wraps around the mountain to the top. It’s worth every step!
Holy Trinity was the third monastery we visited and our first without a guide. I’m not sure if it was a reward for the climb, but we weren’t required to wear skirts.
Staircase carved out of the mountain!
The Monastery of Holy Trinity
Holy Trinity, the third oldest monastery in Meteora, is by far the most isolated and difficult to reach. It sits on a gigantic rock pillar at a height of 1755 feet.
Views of Holy Trinity from a distance
Although beginning history is not documented at the monastery, Great Meteoron manuscripts confirm ascetic monks climbed the rock and built a hermitage in 1362. In 1438, Holy Trinity was founded by monks fleeing the Ottomans.
The main church, and oldest building, was erected between 1458 and 1475. Frescoes were added later, plus a large barrel-vaulted narthex.
For centuries, the only way to access the monastery was with primitive ladders, ropes and nets. Monks spent over 70 years carrying materials up the rock for construction.
Monk cells and guesthouses were added, and a small chapel dedicated to St. John the Baptist was erected in an old hermit cave. Holy Trinity’s refectory (dining hall) has now been converted to a small church with folk-style wall paintings.
During the Turkish occupation, the monastery operated a school for children and a School of Chant.
Relics and icons were looted through the centuries. During World War II, the monastery was bombed–causing it to close for 50 years. More than 120 manuscripts were moved to the Monastery of St. Stephen, where they still remain.
Ancient and new construction combine to make it work.
When Holy Trinity became a filming location for the 1981 James Bond movie “For Your Eyes Only,” monks were not happy with the attention, much rather the tourists. I hope it helped fund renovation projects.
Outside, you’ll find a wonderful lookout point with panoramic views, and don’t miss the massive white cross overlooking a sheer drop to Kalambaka.
Meteora Sunsets
Even when sunsets are covered by clouds, Meteora is truly a photographer’s dream! It was for me! Below are my top three location picks for breathtaking sunset views.
- Sunset Rock for amazing monastery and Meteora rock vistas. We shared this spot in late-March with just a few people, but go early in peak season. Sunset Rock will will be on your right before the observation deck.
- Meteora Main Observation Deck. Another choice for gorgeous sunset views. It has a small parking area, and it’s posted on Google maps.
- We also drove over to Grand Meteora’s upper street parking and took sunset photos looking toward Varlaam and St. Stephen’s.
Sunset Rock. I was afraid to jump over to the white rock on the right (sheer drop between rocks).
Monastery Winter Timetable (November 1 - March 31)
St. Stephen’s Nunnery, 9:30-1 PM, 3-5 PM, Closed for lunch and on Mondays
Holy Trinity Monastery, 10 am-4 pm, Closed on Thursdays
Great Meteoron Monastery, 9:30-2 pm; Closed on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays
Varlaam Monastery, 9 am -3 pm, Closed on Thursdays and Fridays
Roussanou Monastery, 9:30 am-2 pm; closed on Wednesdays
St. Nicholas Anapausas Monastery, 9 am-4 pm and Sundays 9:30-4 pm. Open every day!
Monastery Summer Timetable (April 1 - October 31) **
St. Stephen’s Nunnery, 9-1:30 PM, 3:30-5:30 PM, Closed for lunch and on Mondays
Holy Trinity Monastery, 10-4 PM, Closed on Thursdays
Great Meteoron Monastery, 9:30 am-3 pm; Closed on Tuesdays
Varlaam Monastery, 9 am-4 PM, Closed on Fridays
Roussanou Monastery, 9 am- 3:30 pm (3 pm on Sundays), closed on Wednesdays
Saint Nikolaos Anapausas Monastery, 9 am- 5 pm, Open every day!
** Note: The monasteries of St. Stephen and Roussanou summer timetables begin May 15th.
Meteora rocks lit up at night.
If you rent a car anywhere in Greece, you’ll need to get an International Driver’s Permit (IDP) before you go. Our permits were purchased at AAA Travel. And don’t forget travel insurance! http://www.aaa.com
We secured a private small-group monastery reservation (for the four of us) through Niki Vlachou, our Olympia guide (Niki Olympic Tours). Katarina, our Meteora guide was a pro! And, she brought us skirts to wear.
Niki Vlachou is a tour organizer, travel planner, and a licensed Tour Guide by the Greek Ministry of Tourism. Get in touch with Niki. She takes care of all the details; you just need to show up! http://www.olympictours.gr. [email protected] (697) 242-6065
What's Next?
What’s next? We’ll travel north to the ancient Greek cities of Philippi and Thessaloniki!
Until then, keep exploring!
Check out my other Greece series travel blogs:
Magnificent Meteora – Castles in the Clouds
Delphi, Greece – It’s Still a Mystery
Olympia, Greece – The Birthplace of the Olympics
Athens, Greece – The Acropolis
Santorini, Greece – Off the Beaten Path
For all travel blogs, visit my blogsite: https://traveltipsbytami.com
Climbing up to these seemed like a daunting task but worth every step. Very interesting way to live, but the views were breathtaking. To my engineering mind, it is just amazing how they managed to build these on top of these rocks, and they are still standing today.
What an adventure we had in Meteora! Now, we need to go back and visit the two monasteries we didn’t get to see. Also, you became the hero (after we climbed Holy Trinity, then hiked BACK UP that long pathway) when you ran ahead and had our chariot/car waiting, and cooled, at the top of the hill!
I love that you included the timetables, thank you! This is a “must visit” for me one day.
You will love it! It’s fascinating.