What would you ask if you could get an answer to one question about your future?
Mysterious Delphi was our next stop after a day in Olympia. We made it to the Delphi village well after dark and woke up to majestic mountains, spring flowers, blooming almond trees, and views of the Gulf of Corinth from our hotel balcony.
I live in the picturesque foothills of the Smoky Mountains in east Tennessee, but stunning Delphi does not disappoint!
Do you regularly pray for answers, read a daily horoscope, or have you ever asked for advice from Dear Abby or a fortune teller? Ancient Delphi (pronounced dell-fee in Greece) filled this role for many seeking answers for the future.
For over 1200 years, Delphi was an important Greek religious sanctuary where the Oracle prophetess, Pythia, entertained questions and predicted the future for the mythical god Apollo. It was also the home of the Pythian Olympiad Games.
TIP: Delphi is divided into several different sites. The Sanctuary of Apollo and the Delphi Museum (where we parked) sit higher up on the mountain. We parked roadside and walked down to the Castalian Spring, the Sanctuary of Athena, and the Gymnasium which are free to visit. Parking is a major issue in peak times, but we had no problems in March.
It's all Greek to me. . .
Before visiting, I researched the puzzling story of how Delphi came about and found a conflicting account of myths and bizarre tales. Here’s my attempt:
Legend tells us two eagles crossed at this location after being released by Zeus from opposite ends of the earth. Zeus threw down a stone, and he claimed the spot where it landed to be the center of the world, literally the “navel” or omphalos.
The cone-shaped navel, the Omphalos, marked the spot for the center of the earth in Delphi.
The sanctuary was originally sacred to Gaia, the mother of the gods. It was built to host the cult of the snake Python, Gaia’s son, who prophesied and guarded the ravine of the Castalian Spring and Omphalos stone.
Apollo appeared in the form of a dolphin, or possibly on a dolphin, (Delfinios or Delfi), killed the snake Python, and forced all to serve him instead of Gaia–including the prophetess (sibyl) who worshipped Gaia. As the god of prophecy, Apollo established his temple and designated an oracle priestess, called the Pythia, as his mouthpiece on earth.
The ancient sanctuary
Delphi was neutral and independent. It wasn’t attached to any of the powerful Greek city-states like Athens, Corinth, or Sparta which made it accessible to all.
The ancient sanctuary clings to a very steep Mt. Parnassus. Visitors begin by climbing the spiraling Sacred Way, the path of all who visited the oracle.
I’m a visual learner. Our guide Georgia showed us what the sanctuary looked like at its peak.
The Roman Forum
A columned Roman Agora, or marketplace, was created in the 4th c. AD between the Castalian Spring and the main gate of the Sanctuary. Travelers who did not bring gifts for Apollo could purchase them at the agora.
Romans insisted their roads and markets be built level and straight as-an-arrow, so this is one of the few flat locations on the mountainside.
Climbing the route to the Temple
The uphill Sacred Way was lined with “thank you gifts” to Apollo: statues, altars, monuments, and treasuries from individuals or city-states grateful for good advice, military success, and prosperity.
Monuments held statues of kings and queens, admirals and generals, or victors from famous battles like Marathon, Aegospotami, and Plataea.
Below right, the spiraled bronze Serpent Column was dedicated to Apollo after a Greek victory over the Persians in 479 BC. The original trophy is in Istanbul, Turkey– carried off by Constantine. This replica is missing the three snake heads twisting around the column lifting up a tripod.
Treasuries
Powerful and influential cities showed off their wealth through treasuries (storehouses for gifts to the gods) with the hopes of remaining in Apollo’s good graces.
At its peak, Delphi had 20 treasuries. Three treasuries partially remain today: the Siphnians, the Sicyonians, and the Athenians. Original treasury artwork, friezes and pediments are now in the Delphi Museum.
The Athenian Treasury
After 490 BC, the Athenian Treasury was built with victory loot from the battle of Marathon. The small Doric building was restored between 1904-1906 by piecing together the blocks, like a puzzle, of more than 150 chiseled inscriptions honoring Athens.
Remains of the Treasury of the Siphnians
The Siphnian Treasury was the first building constructed entirely out of marble on mainland Greece (525 BC). It was financed by the people of Siphnos after finding silver and gold in their island mines.
The Siphnians Treasury was supported by the first use of two Caryatids (statues of women) instead of columns. Delphi Museum.
This treasury is also famous for its sculpture frieze reliefs which wrapped around the building in a continuous narrative. The Assembly of the Gods and Capture of Troy, as well as the Battle of the Giants were depicted.
Safely preserved in the Delphi Museum, we can now be eye-to-eye with the masterpieces!
The Athenian Stoa and the Polygonal Wall
After the Oracle of Delphi gave Athens a prophecy for victory over Persia at the Battle of Salamis (480 BC), the Stoa of the Athenians was built to show off their spoils. Only three of the seven white marble columns remain of the 100-foot long open air porch (stoa) created for Athens’ naval power.
Supporting the terrace to the Temple of Apollo is a 250-foot polygonal retaining wall from the 6th c. BC. Although earthquakes destroyed much of Delphi, the interlocking polygonal stones, with no mortar, have survived it all.
The polygonal wall features over 800 tiny carved liberated slave contracts consecrated to Apollo.
The Main Event: The Temple of Apollo
The Temple of Apollo dominated the entire sanctuary and is where the Oracle predicted the future. The rectangular temple was 200-yards long, (two football fields), with 15 enormous columns on each side.
Originally erected in the 7th c. BC, it has been rebuilt several times due to raids, fires, and earthquakes. Today we see the ruins of the final temple (346-320 BC) with the six Doric columns restored in the 1940s.
Remains of the Temple of Apollo
Rooms in the temple were divided into sections, called cellas, for the prophesying oracle, the priests, and visiting pilgrims.
The entrance of the temple posted the wise maxims of the Seven Sages of Greece including “Know Thyself,” “Nothing in Excess,” and “Never Tire of Learning.”
"A prudent question is one-half of wisdom" - Francis Bacon
Pilgrims could ask only one question. With the oracle’s advice, leaders were chosen, wars were fought, ethical dilemmas were resolved, politcal and religious topics were worked out, health questions were answered, world journeys were taken, marriages were decided, and colonies were created.
Famous rulers, philosophers, kings, emperors, and wealthy men traveled from far and wide to ask for Apollo’s guidance in making important decisions. More than 500 prophecies from the Delphi Oracle have been documented from the Archaic, Classical, and Roman periods.
The Mysterious Oracle of Delphi
Apollo’s instrument of communication was a woman, the Oracle priestess known as Pythia. Except for winter, the oracle initially did consultations only one day a month. But at the height of Delphi’s fame (between the 6th and 4th c. BC), several oracles worked in daily shifts.
Red-figure drinking bowl depicting the Pythia giving a consultation at Delphi (5th c. BC) Staatliche Museum, Berlin
An oracle would first purify herself by washing in the Castalian Spring. She then followed a ritual of inhaling barley smoke and chewing laurel leaves–which some say caused her to go into a trance.
Others say her trance-like state was caused from inhaling vapors from chasms or cracks in the rocks below the temple (perhaps ethylene, a gas with hallucinogenic properties).
For reference, Georgia showed us a copy of “The Priestess of Delphi” painting by John Collier.
An unusual process then began. The oracle was alone in an enclosed inner chamber of the temple seated in a bowl on a tripod. The pilgrim seeking an answer would by now have been purified at the spring and offered a sacrifice to Apollo on the hearth of the eternal flame.
Pilgrims would then write ‘the question‘ on a slate tablet and present it to a priest, and the priest would take the question to the oracle. Some say no one saw the oracle face-to-face (similar to the Wizard of Oz).
The oracle would often give a gibberish or cryptic answer, so many times priests had to make interpretations. Did the Oracle’s answer get lost in translation? Pilgrims seeking answers left either confused, happy, worried, or enlightened.
The Theater
Hike up above the Temple of Apollo for stunning views of the valley below and the well-preserved Theater built into the mountain.
Hymns to honor Apollo, the god of music, were held at the theater, and it also hosted song contests. It was built in the 4th century BC and seated around 5000 people. During the Pythian Games, it was used for opening and closing ceremonies as well as musical and drama competitions.
TIP: Even if your tour ends here, hike above the theater for the best views.
Location, location, location
A hike to the summit
Our official Sanctuary of Delphi tour ended at the theater. Georgia, our guide, suggested we see the stadium “just up the hill.” We now know why tours end at the theater because “just up the hill” is another 15-20 minute hike up a steep, winding rock and dirt path called the Via Sacra.
Take in the views! The four of us hiked up with a group of French teachers and students touring Greece who became intrigued with my brother-in-law: they decided he ‘looked like Père-Noël’ (Santa Claus). Answering their curious questions about America took my mind off of huffing and puffing up the hill.
I’m sweating! Athletes & spectators had to climb 2,116 feet above sea level for Pythian Games.
TIP: Make sure you have water, especially in the summer! One of the French teachers got overheated, requiring assistance.
This way to the top!
The Pythian Games Stadium
Delphi’s ancient stadium is the best preserved in Greece. It was built at the highest point in Delphi and could seat 6,500 spectators. The track is about 500 feet, and the stone starting gates are still in place.
The Pythian Games began between 591-585 BC and its athletic events took place at the stadium. They were the second most important games after the Olympics and were held every four years.
The games lasted for a week, and winners received a laurel wreath (no gold medals). Surprisingly, women were allowed to compete at Delphi in both athletic and artistic events.
Events included running and chariot races, wrestling, boxing, pankration, and pentathlon. Note: Unlike Olympia, tourists are not allowed to run on the track.
The stadium was built in the 5th c. BC, but Herodes Atticus added the stone bleachers and arched entrance in the 2nd c. AD.
The Castalian Spring
Outside of and below the Sanctuary of Apollo (on the left side of the road) is the entrance to the Castalian Spring. Legend tells us this is the place where Apollo killed the snake, Python. It was believed the spring fountains had cleansing waters. The oracle and any pilgrims were required to cleanse themselves here before entering the Temple of Apollo.
Note: The spring was not open to visitors during our trip due to rock slides.
The Sanctuary of Athena Pronea and the Tholos
If you are looking for one of the most photographed sites in Delphi, it is not in the Sanctuary of Apollo. The circular Tholos sits among the ruins of the Sanctuary of Athena Pronea down the mountain from Apollo’s temple. We were privileged to be here for the blooming almond trees!
The Tholos was built by the architect Theodoros of Samos in the 4th c. BC. Three of its 20 Doric pillars were restored in 1938.
Traditionally, before pilgrims visited the Sanctuary and Temple of Apollo, their first stop was at the Temple of Athena Pronea. “Pronea” means “the one before.” Because of Gaia, the mother of the gods, Athena was worshipped at Delphi long before Apollo.
The sanctuary had a series of buildings: three temples, two treasuries, an altar, and the Tholos. It was built in the 8th century BC for offerings to Athena and religious practices.
Considered a masterpiece, the Tholos was said to have perfect harmony within its space.
The Pythian Games Gymnasium and Wrestling School
A view of the gymnasium training area from the Sanctuary of Apollo.
Training facilities for the Pythian Games were located a half-mile below the Sanctuary of Apollo near the Temple to Athena. Clinging to the slopes of Mount Parnassus, the Gymnasium and the Palaestra (the Wrestling School) date to the 4th c. BC.
Athletes prepared for games on two separate terraces. The upper terrace had two practice running tracks, and one was covered. The lower terrace was used for wrestling, a pool for bathing, and dressing rooms.
It would be hard to focus on training with this view!
Delphi Archaeological Museum - important finds not shown above
Founded in 1903 and renovated many times, the Delphi Archaeological Museum is well worth a visit and free with your sanctuary ticket. It houses discoveries made at the sanctuary of Delphi and Athena. http://www.delphi.culture.gr
The Silver Bull is the first large-scale statue made from all forged metal: it was created from sheets of silver and gold. The fragments of this life-size bull were found in a pit on the Sacred Way and painstakingly pieced back together.
The 7-foot Sphinx of Naxos (570-560 BC) had the face of a woman, the wings of a bird, and the body of a lion. Donated by the Island of Naxos, it once towered over the Sacred Way on a 32-foot column.
The tall Acanthus Column of Dancers sculpture ( left) once sat atop a 40-foot column near Apollo’s Temple. Three dancing girls once carried a bronze tripod with the omphalos and two eagles on their shoulders. (Right) The carved Omphalos stone made during Roman times represented the navel, or the center of the earth, and was a symbol of Delphi.
Buried by an earthquake and mudslides, the famous bronze Charioteer of Delphi is one of the best preserved statues. The life-size statue of a boy commemorates a chariot race victory in the Pythian Games of 474 BC. It was part of a larger piece which included four horses, a chariot, and a groom (below).
What happened to Delphi?
In 380 AD, Christianity became the official religion of the Roman Empire. Emporer Theodosius I eventually banned all pagan practices and closed temples all over Greece. Between earthquakes and mudslides, the closed sanctuary eventually fell into decay.
However, it is recorded that the Oracle of Delphi gave Emperor Theodosius her final prophecy in 393 AD which was, “Tell the king; the fair wrought house has fallen.”
Archaeologists began working at the site in 1892 and are still at it!
Sleep and Eat
Although getting to Delphi is a scenic drive, try to spend at least one night near the sanctuary so you can take in the views, enjoy local food and wine, and shop for goodies, like honey!
We chose stunning views over five-star ratings and stayed at the Acropole Hotel Delphi. The family-run, rustic hotel is located on the lowest village street offering the best views of the Delphi Gorge, olive groves, and the Bay of Corinth.
Early morning balcony views from the Acropole Hotel Delphi
The Acropole, which hangs cliffside on the mountain, had everything we needed: a fantastic breakfast, affordable rates, street parking, and solitude from the crowds–a block below the town center. Be sure to book a room with a balcony facing the gorge. http://www.delphi.com.gr
With the Acropole manager’s suggestion, we climbed (steps, lots of steps) to the upper main street for dinner at Taverna Vakhos in Delphi Village. http://www.vakhos.com For over 20 years, the Theodorakis family has been serving up fresh, homemade and traditional Greek deliciousness! We loved the complimentary homemade baklava too!
FYI
If you rent a car anywhere in Greece (we logged 1650 miles), you’ll need to get an International Driver’s Permit (IDP) before you go. We purchased our permits at AAA Travel, one of only two private entities in the US authorized by the U.S. Department of State (AATA is the other). And don’t forget travel insurance! http://www.aaa.com
We secured a private small-group Delphi reservation (for the four of us) through Niki Vlachou, our Olympia guide (Niki Olympic Tours). Our Delphi guide, Georgia, was fantastic!
Niki is a tour organizer, travel planner, and a licensed Tour Guide by the Greek Ministry of Tourism. She is rated #1 of things to do on TripAdvisor and comes highly recommended by Rick Steves (American travel writer and author). We were grateful she took care of all the details! http://www.olympictours.gr. [email protected] (697) 242-6065
What’s next? There’s no place like Meteora! Its name means “suspended in the air,” and this otherworldly site in Greece was one of the highlights of our trip.
Until then, keep exploring!
Check out my Greece series travel blogs:
Santorini, Greece – Off the Beaten Path
Athens, Greece – The Acropolis
Olympia, Greece – The Birthplace of the Olympics
For all travel blogs, visit my blogsite: https://traveltipsbytami.com
Tami Kooch
I enjoy traveling with you. Gorgeous photos and interesting details.
Thanks Jeanette! Delphi was a fascinating place and a photographer’s dream!
Delphi, the town and the ruins, are not to be missed. Although from our hotel, everything was a walk up very steep hills, it was worth every step. Whether climbing the steps to dinner at Taverna Vakhos or to the top of the ruins to see the stadium, it was all worth it. The views from Delphi are amazing. We ended up driving after dark, so I would suggest getting there earlier so you can enjoy the views as you come into town. The roads are narrow, and the parking is tight, so if you are driving be sure to rent a vehicle you can easily maneuver. Our Land Rover Defender was a challenge.
So glad we made it to Delphi! Lots of history and beauty. It’s hard to believe people journeyed all the way out and up there for 1,200 years.
haha. Our car was definitely comfy, had a perfect English GPS, and held our luggage, but we will always remember our challenging days of driving in areas made for tiny cars. We owe you and Patrick for making it work!
Thanks for sharing.