If you are traveling to Greece, Athens is a must! Paired with ancient history and archaeology, the bustling capital is one big, living history museum.
We found ourselves in Athens for just ONE FULL DAY after unexpected travel changes. It was also March (winter season), when many places close at 3 pm. With a revised agenda and a long list of sites to see, this travel blog is entitled Athens In A Day.
The night of our arrival, we walked Ermou Street from Syntagma Square to Monastiraki and enjoyed a wonderful rooftop meal with a view of the Acropolis. Don’t leave Athens without this treat!
Now for the long day: Go to the Acropolis first and get there early.
The Acropolis
To beat the crowds, we began our day at the Acropolis before it opened. Check out my travel blog called “Athens, Greece – The Acropolis” for planning, tips, and everything Acropolis. ⇒ https://traveltipsbytami.com/athens-greece-the-acropolis/. It features the four main monuments: The Parthenon, Propylaea, Temple of Athena Nike, and the Erechtheion.
The Parthenon
You’ll also find details on the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, statues of Athena, the massive Greek Flag, the Beaule Gate, the Theatre of Dionysus, the Elgin Marbles in London, a replica of the Parthenon in Tennessee; a fantastic tour guide suggestion, and where to grab a roof-top meal with an Acropolis view.
Areopagus Hill (or Mars Hill)
Areopagus Hill is the massive rock area below the Acropolis crawling with tourists. From the Acropolis, exit toward the main/west entrance and veer right.
The Hill of Areopagus, or Mars Hill, sits below the western entrance to the Acropolis. Areopagus means “Hill of Ares,” and it’s named after the ancient god of War, Ares or in Latin, Mars. It’s free to visit and comes with great views, especially at sunset.
TIP: Climb the metal staircase with a handrail instead of the old marble steps. Be careful on top; it’s slippery!
Areopagus Hill
Since 1500 BC, the rocky hill has historical, religious, and cultural significances, plus mythological ties. Not only did the goddess Athena preside over trials, Ares (the Greek god of war) was put on trial for murdering one of Poseidon’s sons. Twelve Greek gods (the oldest Supreme Court in history) oversaw the murder trial.
The rock hill is also where the human Greek Council of the Areopagus met. For about 200 years (6th to 4th century BC), the Council ruled the city government and was the most important law court in Athens. Its 100 aristocratic Council members were chosen for life and included scholars, philosophers and officials.
The Council lost its power during the Persian invasion but was revived again when Rome conquered Athens in 86 BC. The active Council still presided over minor court cases until the 5th century AD when it stopped operating.
While it might be just a big rock to visitors, it was an important place for me to visit. In Acts 17, the Apostle Paul, a Christian missionary, was asked to speak before the Areopagus Council in 51 AD. Paul was troubled by the many altars and temples to gods in Athens, especially altars to unknown gods. They discussed and debated ideas, and Paul’s sermon attempted to make the Gospel understandable and share how it applied to everyone.
Paul’s sermon, in Greek, is featured on a bronze tablet to the right of the Mars Hill steps.
The Roman Forum
From Mars Hill, walk down to the nearby Roman Forum.
TIP: If time is an issue, opt for the Greek Agora over the Roman Forum. However, a Forum entrance pass is often combined with the Acropolis/Agora combo ticket.
The Roman Forum and the Gate of Athena Archegetis
Rome built their own forum (or market) in every city they conquered. Emperor Augustus and Julius Caesar donated funds to build the forum plus a new road connecting to the Greek Agora in the 1st century BC. Today it sits in ruins and is still being excavated.
Unlike the Greek agora, the smaller Roman forum was more of a market in a large, open-air courtyard. It was surrounded by covered porches with columns and shops, a fountain and statues.
The Tower of the Winds
The most notable building today is the octagonal Tower of the Winds known for the Reliefs of the Eight Winds around the top of the tower. The tower, with a bronze weather vane on top, had several functions: a clock, a weather station, and a guide to the planets.
The Ancient Agora
Now walk toward the ancient Agora.
Athens’ ancient Agora was the seat of all civil, judicial, and administrative authority as well as the social, political, and religious center. It’s also where democracy was born over 2500 years ago.
Agora means “a place to gather.” Not only was it a market, it was where business was conducted, laws were passed, athletes competed, and friends gathered for music and theater. It was a place to listen to and debate famous philosophers like Socrates, Plato, Aristotle, and Epicurus. Shrines and altars for offerings to gods were everywhere.
The busy hub of Athens sat just below the Acropolis.
Some form of an agora has been on this site since 3000 BC. For over 800 years (600 BC to 300 AD), it was the place to be! While it sits in ruins today, it is one of the best archaeological resources for understanding Athens’ history. It was abandoned after the Slavic invasion of 580 AD, and excavations finally began in 1859.
All city roads led to the agora. The Panathenaic Way (still visible today) was the main street running diagonally through the agora and was used as the parade route to the Acropolis for 800 years.
TIP: Expect to spend some time when visiting the 30-acre agora. Take a right and walk up to the Temple of Hephaestus first. It sits above the Agora and provides a good visual of the entire market.
The Temple of Hephaestus (also called Theseum) is the best surviving Doric Greek temple in all of Greece. It was built (450-415 BC) about the same time as the Parthenon right after the peace treaty with Persia. It even looks like the Parthenon.
The Temple of Hephaestus
It sits on Agoraios Kolonos hill which was once the site of iron, metal, and pottery shops. It makes sense that the temple was used to worship Hephaestus (patron god of blacksmiths) and Athena (patron goddess of the arts).
Down the hill (toward the east), you’ll find the remains of several public buildings. A circular monument, the Tholos, was the meeting place of the 50 senators, called prytaneis. They were selected from the 10 tribes of Athens and made up the Executive Committee of the Parliament (or Bouleuterion). One-third were required to be on duty 24-hours a day.
Next to the Tholos was the Bouleuterion. The Boule was a council made up of 500 male citizens chosen by lot to serve for a year. The Council of 500 made democratic decisions, voted, and prepared legislation.
Remains of the circular Tholos
Near the Metroon–the old Bouleuterion which housed the state archives–is the Monument of the Eponymous Heroes (4th century BC). Only the structure remains which supported ten mythical hero statues, from the ten tribes of Athens. It was also the ancient “bulletin board” displaying laws, notices, and events.
The impressive Great Drain (5th century BC) still functions as a sophisticated engineering drainage system and water channel. And Socrates was forced to drink poisonous hemlock (the ancient Greek method of execution) at the nearby State Prison site, now in ruins.
Statues from the Odeon of Agrippa
Built by the Romans, the Odeon of Agrippa was a 1000-seat, two-story roofed music theater constructed around 14 BC. It was gifted to the people of Athens by Marcus Agrippa, the son-in-law and general of Augustus.
After the Odeon was destroyed in 260 AD, the Great Gymnasium of the Giants was added in its spot (410 AD). Massive statues of a Giant and two Tritons still stand at the entrance.
View of the Agora from the Acropolis
The largest building in the agora today is the long, 2-story collonaded Stoa of Attalos. Of the more than seven original stoas in the Agora, this one was given to Athens in 150 BC by Attalus II, the King of Pergamum (now Turkey), who was educated in Athens. It was the first and largest shopping mall and had 21 shops on each floor.
TIP: Public restrooms are available on the first level of the open-air stoa.
The long covered walkway of the Stoa of Attalos
The Stoa was accurately reconstructed by the American School of Classical Studies between 1953-56. The school, with funds donated by the John D. Rockefeller, Jr. family, also created and sponsors the Ancient Agora Museum which is filled with sculptures, objects, and coins excavated from the site.
Eat and recharge!
You can work up an appetite exploring ancient ruins! From the Agora, we walked through the Sunday Flea Market to a lively area called “Souvlaki Row” for lunch. This area is filled with casual outside and indoor restaurants showcasing traditional Greek street food like souvlaki, gyros, kebabs, moussaka, tzatziki, fried feta, and other goodies. It did not disappoint!
The National Archaeological Museum
I’ll go ahead and say it: DO NOT MISS the National Archaeological Museum! It ranks in the top five museums in the world and has the best ancient Greek art collection.
Even if you or someone in your group dislikes museums, this one is fascinating! We took a taxi; it’s off the beaten path and more than a mile north of the Plaka. The closest metro station is VICTORIA (Green Line) with a 7-block walk to the museum. And confirm closing hours! In March, it closed at 3 pm but was open later on Mondays.
The museum focuses on ancient treasures and history from 7000 BC to 500 AD. You can see objects and artwork from the rise and fall of Greece’s civilizations: the Minoans, the Mycenaeans, Archaic Greece, the Classical Age/Alexander the Great, and the Romans.
TIP: Pick up a guide at the museum entrance. I mapped out our visit by room numbers, but several rooms were being renovated. If you have time, wander! If not, here are some major pieces not to miss:
1. The Burial Mask of Agamemnon and other Mycenaean treasures. These first floor rooms display artifacts from ancient Mycenae (1500-1400 BC) including the death mask of King Agamemnon, gold rings, inlaid gold and silver daggers/swords, pottery, and funerary objects.
The Burial Mask of Agamemnon (above) and gold Vapheio Cups found in a Mycenaean tomb (below).
2. Kore and Kouros Statues. Larger than life-size, these statues from the Archaic Period (650 BC) were presented as gifts to honor the dead in a cemetery or as gifts to a god at a sanctuary. Statues of women (Kore) wore clothing; the men (Kouros) did not.
A Massive Kouros Statue from the Archaic Period (600 BC). I was eye-to-eye level with his knees!
3. The Poseidon of Artemision (above) and The Horse and Jockey of Artemision (below). These enormous bronze statues were salvaged from the depths of the sea off Cape Artemision and Marathon. The Poseidon statue (460 BC) is 6′ 10″ tall. Poseidon’s trident was not found.
The famous statue of a boy jockey on a galloping horse (140 BC) most likely celebrated a Panhellenic Game victory. His reins and whip were missing when found on the seafloor.
4. Bronze Statue of a Youth (the Antikythera Ephebe). This bronze masterpiece of a young man was found in 1990 by divers off the island of Antikythera, Greece from a Roman shipwreck.
Whatever the statue was holding in his hand is now missing. It was perhaps an athlete showing off a prize, Perseus holding the head of Medusa, or the handsome Paris handing an apple to Aphrodite. c. 340-330 BC.
I snapped this photo of a group of nuns carefully examining The Bronze Statue of a Youth the day we visited.
5. The Varvakeion Athena. This Roman-era marble statue of Athena Parthenos (200-250 AD) is considered to be the most accurate reproduction of the original Parthenon statue, just much smaller.
The Varvakeion Athena statue (200-250 AD)
6. The Thera Gallery. Having just visited the Minoan-era Akrotiri Archaeological site in Santorini, we made sure to visit the second floor artifacts from the ancient island of Thera (modern Santorini). Like Pompeii, an entire city was buried (and preserved) under ash from a volcano explosion in 1630 BC.
Click here for more information on Akrotiri in my Santorini travel blog: ⇒ https://traveltipsbytami.com/santorini-greece-off-the-beaten-path/
Wall painting entitled “Boxing Boys”
The gallery includes life-size original wall paintings of exotic animals, fish, flowers, and even a fleet of boats with cities, rivers, and trees.
An Akrotiri room mural painting called “Spring”
The Changing of the Guard & the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
We Ubered back to the Hellenic Parliament to see a moving ceremony: the Changing of the Guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.
Every Sunday at 11 am, the Greek Presidential Guards (or Evzone soldiers) march from their barracks to the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and change guards. If you miss the main ceremony, the guard change occurs very slowly every day at the top of the hour. They also raise and lower the Acropolis flag on Sunday.
The Evzones were founded in 1868 as a regiment of the Greek Army to guard the Grave of the Unknown Soldier and the Presidential Mansion. On Sundays, the guards wear a traditional white kilt, or Foustanella. Its 400 pleats represent the 400 years Greece was under Turkish occupation.
Their red hats stand for the blood shed in battles, and the black sock tassels symbolize tears for those who fell in battle. They wear a traditional black pom pom on their shoes, and the shoe base has 60 nail heads to simulate battle sounds. Other uniforms worn Monday through Saturday are inspired from different Greek battles.
Buffalo Break?
We crossed over to Syntagma Square and walked the very crowded Ermou Street in search of my weakness: gelato! Bufala Gelato came highly recommended and was worth the wait! This rich and creamy ice cream is made with 100% fresh Greek Buffalo milk from Serres. Check it out! http://www.bufalagelato.com
Byzantine Churches
We saw examples of Byzantine Empire architecture in churches and monasteries all over Athens. These small churches can be spotted by their unique red-tiled, eight-sided domes, elaborate brickwork, and cross-in-square architectural style.
The 11th century Church of Agios (Saint) Apostoloi Solaki sits in a quiet corner of the Ancient Agora. It’s also known as the Church of the Holy Apostles and was built to commemorate the teachings of the Apostle Paul in Athens.
One of the oldest Greek Orthodox churches in Athens is Panagia Kapnikarea (1050 AD). Originally a monastery, it was built over the ruins of an ancient temple.
The church is located right in the middle of the highly-congested pedestrian Ermou Street near Monastiraki Square. Monastiraki means “little monastery.” When Ermou Street was constructed (1883), the church was expected to be demolished or relocated. Thankfully, many intervened and it was saved.
Inside, the church is covered in beautiful Byzantine paintings and frescoes
Anafiotiki
Our last challenge of the day was to find the unusual Anafiotika Village. Built on the cliffside just below the Acropolis, these white-washed homes were created by Anafi Island builders who moved to Athens in the 1800’s to work on King Otto’s palace. Unlike anywhere in Athens, the neighborhood resembles the architectural style of their Cycladic island homes.
Although Anafiotika was elusive, we finally found it! Along the journey, we discovered several churches, walked through the outdoor restaurants called the “Plaka Stairs,” and climbed hundreds of steps! Let me be clear: we WERE TIRED!
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Exhausted but happy to have explored so much of Athens, we all agreed to call it a day!
Need some help??? After we left Athens, our small group of four explored Olympia with a fantastic tour guide, Niki Vlachou with Niki Olympic Tours. We now know she shares her guide time between Athens and Olympia. Niki also helped us pre-organize guided tours in Delphi and Meteora, Greece. I highly recommend her services! Be sure to contact her well in advance; you will be glad you did.
Niki is a tour organizer, travel planner, and a licensed Tour Guide by the Greek Ministry of Tourism. She is rated #1 of things to do on TripAdvisor, and comes highly recommended by Rick Steves (American Travel Writer and Author).
email: [email protected] Tel: +30 6972 426085 Website: http://www.olympictours.gr
A gorgeous day in Athens! Massive columns at the Acropolis Propylaea
What’s next? Stay tuned as we travel to the home of the ancient Olympic Games – Olympia, Greece! If you want to be where people “aren’t,” then escape to Greece’s gorgeous countryside.
Until then, keep exploring!
For other travel blogs, visit my blogsite: https://traveltipsbytami.com
Tami Kooch
What a day we had in Athens! It was filled with many beautiful and interesting sights. From the ancient ruins. Areopagus Hill, to the changing of the guard, it was an experience I will never forget. While the trip through the Anafiotiki was long and frustrating, it was worth the effort. We probably saw more of this area than other tourist because we got lost and had to back track so much. However, I would not change a thing.
Yes! It was fascinating! I didn’t realize Athens was such a BIG city (most photos of Athens simply show the Acropolis). I probably need to ask forgiveness for suggesting “just one more thing.” To say that we had hit a wall before we found Anafiotiki would be an understatement! We can giggle about it now, but I don’t know if I’ve ever been that exhausted.