History comes alive in Athens! I couldn’t wait to explore this UNESCO World Heritage Site! It’s known as the Cradle of Western Civilization and the Birthplace of Democracy. This Athens blog will focus on the heart of Athens: the Acropolis.
A view of the Acropolis from the Ancient Greek Agora
After a schedule change, we had only one afternoon/evening and another full day to see all of Athens. If you’re in the same situation, I’ll give you some tips for seeing Athens on a time crunch. You can cover more ground than you would think possible in 24-hours with a little organization and caffeine!
Make the Acropolis a priority and expect to spend a few hours on-site. It is open every day from 8 am to sunset. The actual closing time depends on the season (either winter or summer). We visited in late-March, considered winter.
If you don’t have a planned Acropolis tour with a guide, my best advice is to pre-purchase tickets, along with the optional audio guide, as early as possible. Download the app, grab your charged earbuds, and get to the Acropolis before it opens. In 2022, the Acropolis had over three million visitors–with as many as 23,000 people each day.
At Disney World, they call this being onsite for the “rope drop.” You want to be on top of the Acropolis before smothering crowds and tours arrive between 9 and 10 am. Pre-booking allows you to scan your ticket and enter the site without standing in line. Also, see my suggestion below for scheduling a fantastic tour guide.
TIP: Preparation is key! You’ll need good walking shoes (you’re going to pound the pavement), a back-up phone charger for the long day, sunglasses, camera, sunscreen, a bottle of water, tour information or tickets downloaded, and perhaps an Athens map. Note: Backpacks and large bags are not allowed and must be stowed.
Expect challenges! We began with a traffic hurdle: Streets were closed all over the city for a marathon! Our Uber driver worked his magic to get us to the Mars Hill entrance early.
TIP: There are two entrances: The West (or main) Entrance is the shortest distance to the Acropolis. Access it near Mars Hill (also known as Areopagus Hill) on Rovertou Galli. Head up the path which splits off from the pedestrian Dionysiou Areopagitou Street.
The South (or side) Entrance begins near the Acropolis Museum on Dionysiou Areopagitou. This entrance adds 10-20 minutes to your walk and is a steady uphill climb. I suggest you take this path on the way down.
Massive carved marble cylinders, called drums, were stacked–without mortar–to form columns.
Everyone knows the Parthenon is on the Acropolis, but what else is up there and how did it come to be? The four major monuments are the Propylaea, the Temple of Athena Nike, the Erechtheion, and the Parthenon.
Since around 4000 BC, people lived on or around the “upper city” for defensive purposes. The first Greek tribes, the Mycenaeans, arrived around 1600 BC. They built a citadel and a palace on the Acropolis fortified by a wall of protection. They worshipped Athena, the patron goddess of the city. Then it was all destroyed by the Persians in 480 BC.
The path to the top!
Most of the monuments on the Acropolis today are from an era known as the Golden Age. Athens was destroyed from the battles of Marathon, Salamis and Plateia. Reconstruction began under the democratic leadership of Pericles (461-429 BC) who used treasury money to transform the city.
The Odeon of Herodes Atticus
On the way up the hill to the Acropolis, veer off to the right for a view of the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. Still used today for performances and concerts, this 5,000 seat amphitheater was built during Roman times.
In 161 BC, the theatre was commissioned by the wealthy benefactor Tiberius Claudius Atticus Herodes of Marathon, Greece in memory of his wife, Regilla. It was built with a semicircle marble orchestra, an elaborate three-level stage wall, and wow: it had a wooden covered roof made from Lebanon cedar.
It was called an Odeon because it hosted music and songs, known as “odes,” not dramas. The theatre was destroyed in 267 AD when the Goth-Hurulians set fire to it, and the roof collapsed. Between 1950-61, it was restored and is now used every summer during the Festival of Athens.
The Propylaea
Make your way back to the path and continue uphill to the grand Propylaea gate (the main entrance door) of the Acropolis. As you walk up the steep marble steps, take yourself back to a time when ancient visitors came to this point before the final push to the summit! And grab a hand! Steep steps and very few handrails can make climbing a challenge.
TIP: Visiting the Acropolis is now possible for travelers with disabilities. A new high-tech elevator has been installed and is strictly available for disabled visitors only. Call +30 210 3214172 or +30 210 9238470 if you have questions.
The Propylaea was built in five short years (437-432 BC) by the architect Mnesicles. This gate was near the top of the “Sacred Way,” a procession or parade route during the Panathenaia Festival. Thousands of people walked, danced, and rode on horses all the way from the Ancient Agora to the top of the Acropolis each year to honor the goddess Athena with sacrifices and offerings.
Looking back on the Propylaea Gate from the Acropolis.
Originally painted bright colors, the Propylaea was u-shaped and had a central section of five doorways built with wooden doors, massive Doric columns, and platform wings on both sides. The north wing on the left side housed an art gallery with magnificent paintings and was used for official banquets by dignitaries and VIPs. The wing on the right side was smaller because the Temple of Athena Nike and other buildings took up space.
The Temple of Athena Nike
The Temple of Athena Nike
The small Ionic columned Temple of Athena Nike (Neek-ee) housed a wooden statue of Athena of Victory. Built at the right entrance of the Propylaea, it was designed by Callicrates, a Parthenon architect, after the Propylaea was finished (431-415 BC).
This Athena goddess had no wings; she was erected so victory could not fly away from Athens. Her statue celebrated the victory over the Persians at the Battle of Plataea in 479 BC and hoped to ensure a victory over the Spartans in the ongoing Peloponnesian War.
The Statue of Athena
You’ll be on the Acropolis once you pass through the Propylaea. The first thing ancient visitors would see was the massive bronze statue of Athena Promachos (Athena the Champion) standing nearly 30 feet tall, armed and ready for battle. She was the goddess of wisdom and warriors, and her role was to watch over and protect the city.
Taking almost 10 years to complete, Athena was created by the Greek sculptor Phidias and dedicated to Athens’ victory over Marathon (490 BC). The statue was so tall the tip of her spear and the crest of Athena’s helmet could be seen from ships at sea, 30 miles away.
Parts of the marble base are still visible, but this statue which towered over Athens for around 1000 years was most likely dismantled and carried off to Constantinople during a 4th crusade siege in 1204 AD.
The Erechtheion and the Porch of the Caryatids
Have you brushed up on Greek mythology? On the left side of the Acropolis you’ll find the Erechtheion. This building took its name from the legendary first king of Athens, Erechtheus (also known as Poseidon).
This view of the east end (with the six Ionic columns) was the upper level entrance.
The Erechtheion was the most religious building on the Acropolis: a shrine and a temple housed the ancient relics of the Athenians. It was dedicated to the life-size, and oldest, olive wood statue of Athena Polias, Protector of the City.
The building was finished in beautiful white marble around 406 BC by the architect Mnesicles and was probably the most complex structure on the Acropolis. In addition to the porch of the Caryatids, it was built on four levels, had three different roof lines, plus Ionic columns with three different dimensions.
The inner worship hall (the cella) was divided by two walls. It allowed the worship of both Greek gods (Athena and Poseidon).
The Sacred Olive Tree at the Erectheion
This is the area where Poseidon and Athena had a contest battle for naming rights to the city.
Athena stabbed a rock with her spear and grew an olive tree. It was a productive gift as olive branches were a symbol of peace and provided food. Olympic athlete trophies (wreaths) were also made from olive branches.
Poseidon threw his trident and opened a gash in the earth giving the gift of water: salt water. Ultimately, Athena won. Poseidon lost. And therefore, the city is named “Athens.”
For over 2500 years, a sacred olive tree has grown on this spot. The tree has been damaged by wars, fire, and weather, but somehow an olive branch was always saved and replanted. In 1952, members of the American School of Archaeology replanted the tree with a branch that had been saved and grown after destruction by the Germans during World War II.
The Porch of the Caryatids
For this temple, the most renowned architectural features are the six statues of the Caryatids. Rather than using columns, female statues called Caryatids support the exterior porch roof with their heads.
The statues took their name from Caryae maidens from the Peloponnese region of Laconia who carried baskets on their heads. Except for one Caryatid taken by Lord Elgin (now in the British Museum in London), the original statues are housed in the Acropolis Museum.
Through the years, the temple was set on fire several times, was converted to a Christian temple in the 6th century AD, and was even turned into a Turkish fort which occupied the commander’s harem. After Greece’s independence, it was restored to its original plan. No more harems!
The Parthenon
Finally, the Parthenon is the crown jewel of the Acropolis and the pinnacle of ancient Greek architecture. It was commissioned by Pericles and supervised by the master sculptor/architect Phidias in 447 BC after Athens defeated the Persians.
It was completed in less than 10 years and is still the largest Doric temple in Greece (228 feet long and 101 feet wide–with a footprint of more than 23,000 SF). Athena was worshipped inside the Parthenon, and the building also housed the Athens treasury.
This west end Parthenon view greeted visitors, but the main entrance was at the other end.
The Parthenon sits in ruins and scaffolding now–both from wars, theft, pollution, acid rain, and even an odd accident in 1687. During the Venetian siege of the Acropolis, the defending Turks were using the Parthenon as a gunpowder storage when it was ignited by a bomb. The explosion blew up the interior, some walls and columns, and destroyed the roof. Today, it is a work in progress!
The crossbeams above the columns were decorated with 92 mythical scenes on square panels of relief carvings called “metopes.” The metopes on all four sides depicted battles with centaurs, giants, Amazons, and the fall of Troy. Also, a 525-foot-long frieze of panels circled the entire building featuring the Panathenaic parade.
Unfortunately, almost all of the original sculptures, pediments, panels and friezes are missing! A few originals are in the Acropolis Museum, but sadly the “good stuff” is housed in London’s British Museum. They are named the “Elgin Marbles” after Lord Elgin, the British Ambassador who had the marbles removed from the Parthenon in the early 1800s.
A portion of the Elgin Marbles at London’s British Museum from my 2015 and 2018 visits.
Today, the controversy continues! The British claim they legally bought and rescued the marbles from a deteriorated area, but the Greeks feel the marbles were stolen and should be returned as part of Athens’ heritage.
As an art and history enthusiast, I know these situations exist at museums all over the world. Just as I do not see the National Archaeology Museum in Athens returning Egyptian pieces to Egypt, I do not see The British Museum returning the Parthenon marbles to Athens. What are your thoughts regarding this ongoing issue?
More stats? The Parthenon was constructed from 100,000 tons of marble. It was built on three massive platforms, each 20 inches tall, with 17 Doric columns on each side and eight columns at each end. It also had 19 inner Ionic columns.
The architects used sophisticated engineering and optical illusions to make the Parthenon appear perfectly straight, plus protect it from earthquakes. But in what the Greeks called “entasis,” there is barely a straight line anywhere.
Columns were built to bulge and lean slightly inward. The fluted columns are 34 feet high; they are 6’3″ in diameter at the bottom, but they taper at the top to 4’10”. The corner columns are thicker than the others to make them appear the same size. The base even arches up in the middle to counteract a sagging illusion. My engineer husband helped explain all this to me!
The East End was the original entrance. Citizens of Athens would approach the statue of Athena from here with gifts hoping the city would continue to have success.
This Athena statue was even more impressive than the others! Athena Parthenos (Athena the Virgin) was decorated in marble and some 2,400 pounds of gold. She had a spear and a shield in her left hand and wore a soldier’s helmet. She held a statue of the goddess Nike in the palm of her other hand and was accompanied by a giant snake on the ground (which stood for death and destruction).
Can’t get to Greece to see the Parthenon? Did you know Nashville, Tennessee has a replica? A full-scale reproduction of the Parthenon was built for Tennessee’s 1897 Centennial Exposition. A 42-foot statue of Athena was added in 1990. It is the world’s only exact Parthenon replica and still stands as the centerpiece of Centennial Park.
The replica of the Parthenon at Centennial Park in Nashville, Tennessee
Nashville’s Parthenon was created with great attention to historical accuracy. Sculptures, pediments, and metopes now missing in Athens were made and restored by creating casts of the Elgin Marbles housed in London’s British Museum. The statue of Athena sheds some light on the original and magnificent Athens’ statue for visitors.
The statue of Athena was designed by Nashville native Alan LeQuire and added in 1990.
The Greek Flag, the Beaule Gate, and What Lies Below?
You can see the giant Acropolis Greek flag from just about anywhere in Athens. Walk to the observation deck for Acropolis photos and great views of Athens below. 
The blue and white stripes of the Greek flag stand for the nine syllables of the Greek phrase “Freedom or Death.” Our audio tour guide told us about the Nazi occupation of Athens in 1941. When the Germans ordered a soldier guarding the Greek flag to remove it, the Greek soldier took it down, wrapped himself in it, and jumped to his death. The Nazi flag was then raised.
The Greek resistance against the Nazis began when two heroic teenagers, Manolis Glezos and Lakis Santas, climbed Acropolis Hill one night. They removed the Nazi flag and raised the Greek flag once again. A plaque to commemorate their bravery is posted near the base of the Greek flag.
To connect the dots, most of Athens can be seen from the the Acropolis. If you walk the perimeter, you’ll find the Plaka, Anafiotika, and Monastiraki neighborhoods; the ancient Agora, the Roman Forum, both Areopagus (Mars) Hill and Philopappos Hill; Mount Lycabettus, the Parliament building and National Gardens; the Zappeion Exhibition Hall, and the Panathenaic Olympic Stadium.
The Ancient Agora
Mount Lycabettus and the old historic Plaka neighborhood
From above, or on your walk back down, you can also view the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, the Stoa of Eumenes, the Asklepieion, and the Theatre of Dionysus.
The Theatre of Dionysus
Considered the world’s oldest theater and now mostly in ruins, the Theatre of Dionysus was constructed in the 6th century BC. It once held 17,000 spectators on the southern slope below the Acropolis.
This is where the annual spring drama festival competition took place and where ancient playwrights (Euripides, Aeschylus, Sophocles, and Aristophanes) presented their works for the festival.
The Beulé Gate is now the Acropolis exit. It was added by the Romans in the 3rd century AD as part of a defensive wall. The gate is named after the archaeologist, Ernest Beulé, who discovered and excavated it in 1852.
The Beulé Gate
TIP: After we left Athens, our small group of four explored Olympia with a fantastic tour guide, Niki Vlachou with Niki Olympic Tours. We now know she shares her guide time between Athens and Olympia. Niki also helped us pre-organize guided tours in Delphi and Meteora, Greece. I highly recommend her services! Be sure to contact her well in advance; you will be glad you did.
Niki is a tour organizer, travel planner, and a licensed Tour Guide by the Greek Ministry of Tourism. She is rated #1 of things to do on TripAdvisor, and comes highly recommended by Rick Steves (American Travel Writer and Author).
email: [email protected], Tel: +30 6972 426085, Website: http://www.olympictours.gr
Last, I recommend dinner with a view of the Acropolis at night! We had an amazing Greek meal with my in-laws and their dear friends who live in Athens at the Savvas Roof Garden Restaurant (near Monastiraki Square, since 1922). www:savvas-restaurant.com
Dinner with a view of the Acropolis and OH SO delicious Greek food!!!
Stay tuned for more of Athens, Greece! We’ll explore the ancient Agora, Mars Hill, the Roman Forum, the National Archaeology Museum, attend the Changing of the Guard, get lost in Athens’ neighborhoods, and more!
Until then, keep exploring!
For other travel blogs, visit my blogsite: https://traveltipsbytami.com
Tami Kooch
Athens was wonderful and as Tami mentioned wear your most comfortable shoes because you will be logging many steps. It is amazing how much we saw in one day. I second Tami’s comments about Niki. She was wonderful and provided much insight on our visit to Olympia.