Buonjiorno!
Are you considering a trip to Italy in search of La Dolce Vita? It’s an Italian expression meaning the sweet life, or the good life. Or, are you just in search of something for your sweet tooth? Besides the requirement of eating gelato everyday, be sure to try these sweet treats: Tiramisu, Cannoli, Panna Cotta, Zeppole, and Sfogliatelle! Italians take desserts and pastries to the next level, and you will not be disappointed! And don’t forget to pair these with a cup of Cappuccino, Caffè Macchiato, Latte, or Espresso! Below is a bouquet of ice cream cones from one of the many gelato shops we frequented.
This Rome blog (Part Two) is a result of several friends asking for Italian travel tips, plus my memories and photos of an Italy trip our family took with Monograms Independent Travel. In Rome: Let’s Visit the Eternal City – Part One, I covered the highlights of Vatican City (St. Peter’s Basilica, the Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel); the Roman Colosseum, the Forum, and Palatine Hill.
Because I always attempt to learn, and use, a bit of new language in a country when traveling, here’s a quick vocabulary lesson which might help! It’s just a beginning!
- Hi and Bye (casual) – Ciao! – (chow)
- Goodbye – Arrivederci – (Ahr-ree-veh-dehr-chee)
- Good morning and hello – Buongiorno – (Bwohn-johr-noh)
- Good evening – Buonasera – (Bwoh-nah-seh-rah)
- Yes – Si – (see)
- No – No- (noh)
- Please– Per favore –(Pehr-fah-voh-reh)
- Thank you – Grazie – (Grah-tsee-eh)
- Excuse me – [for a question] – Scusi – (Skooh-zee)
- Do you speak English? – Parla Inglese? – (Parh-la een-glay-zeh)
- I’m sorry –Mi dispiace – (Mee-dees-pyah-cheh)
- Where is the bathroom? – Dov’è il bagno?- (Dov-veh-eel-bahn-yoh?)
- The check (bill) please – Il conto, per favore – (Eel kon-toh, peehr fah-voh-reh)
Plug these words or phrases into a Translation App, and you can hear a true Italian annunciate them romantically and molto rapido!
Now, let’s get back to learning about the Eternal City! To better understand the big picture of Rome, we added a Monograms Travel tour to explore beyond its city walls. The ancient city was built on and between the famous “Seven Hills of Rome.” All the seven hills are not “hilly.” We passed by the ruins of the ancient Appian Way (called the Via Appia Antica in Rome) and got the opportunity to walk a bit of it.
For both military and trade purposes, one of the most important roadways built by the Romans was the Appian Way. Designed and constructed in 312 BC by Appius Claudius Caecus, this straight as an arrow Roman road connected to Capua (near Naples) and eventually extended almost 400 miles south to the seaport of Brindisi.
Today, portions of the Appian Way are a preserved nature park for pedestrians. You can now walk the same footpath as Emperors (like Julius Caesar), the Apostle Peter (fleeing Rome when he encountered the risen Jesus), the Apostle Paul (as he exited a ship at the seaport and walked toward Rome as a prisoner), and the ex-gladiator, Spartacus.
In 73 BC, Spartacus led a two-year slave revolt against the Romans with an army of 60,000+, and he died in one of those battles. In 71 BC, over 6,000 captured slaves were crucified on crosses, roughly every 50 feet, from Rome to Capua on the Appian Way. The Romans left them hanging there for months to remind everyone passing by of what “not to do!”
Located near the Appian Way are the Catacombs of Domitilla.
Catacomb cemeteries are excavated underground burial sites located outside the city limits. Early-Christians, Jews and pagans were buried in more than 40 locations from the 1st to the 5th centuries–until the persecution of Christians ceased with the Edict of Milan in 313 AD. These catacombs were named after the Domitilla family who originally commissioned them to be dug on their family land.
In a below-ground labyrinth spanning some 11 miles and four levels, the Domitilla catacomb passageways contain over 26,000 tombs. (Photos were not allowed, and our guided tour covered a mere 5% of the enormous catacomb network). Through narrow and dark tunnels, multiple layers of niches carved into the cave walls can be seen where human remains were, and still are, buried.
At the time, a majority of people could not read, so instead of names or dates being engraved, mementos or Christian symbols were left or carved into the limestone–not only to remember them, but to mark where they were buried. Since 2017, restorations to remove layers of algae and build-up deposits have uncovered colorful frescoes.
Tip: If you’re claustrophobic or you get spooked by cemeteries, visiting the catacombs may not be your cup of tea. We agreed it was incredibly interesting, and our teenager thought it was pretty cool!
Back on the bus, we viewed the ancient Aurelian walls built around Rome for protection, the Baths of Caracalla, and the Circus Maximus. We also saw the Palazzo Margherita, where the Italian Queen Margherita once lived. Today, it is the American Embassy.
Last, we visited the impressive Papal Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls.
The Apostle Paul was martyred (beheaded) in Rome. According to tradition, Paul’s body was buried along the Ostiense Way, two miles away from the location of his martyrdom in a tomb owned by a Christian woman. Although Paul was a Roman citizen (unlike the Apostle Peter), he was not allowed to be buried inside the city walls because he was a Christian. This explains why the basilica name includes “Outside the Walls” of Rome.
Thankfully, Paul’s companions built a shrine over his grave to mark it. In the 2nd century, Emperor Constantine built the first church over Paul’s grave. Because of wars, earthquakes and fires, the basilica has been rebuilt many times and this one reopened in 1840. It’s a National Monument and one of the four Major Basilicas designated by the Pope. Inside the basilica is the sacred tomb of St. Paul. Encased above his tomb are the chains used to join Paul to the Roman soldier who guarded him.
In between our Monograms’ city highlights tour, the “beyond the walls of Rome” tour, (plus a day trip to Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast), we pounded the ancient pavement to see as much of Rome as possible before heading to Florence.
The Pantheon
One of the best preserved ancient buildings in Rome is the Pantheon. Its Greek name means temple of all the gods, and the first temple on this site was built by Agrippa in 27 BC. This Pantheon was rebuilt by Emperor Hadrian in 118 AD. It has the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world making it a marvel of engineering. A circular opening in the top of the dome (called the oculus) lets in the only light, plus rain!
In 609 AD, it became a church. The pagan gods were removed and replaced with statues of Christian saints and beautiful art. Many notable people are buried here including the first two kings of unified Italy: Vittorio Emanuele and his son, Umberto I. However, the most important tomb is of Raphael, the Renaissance painter, sculptor, and architect. Several sculptures and Raphael’s last painting, The Transfiguration are housed in the Pantheon and were finished by his students after his passing.
Blooper: We visited the Pantheon our first day in Rome after flying all night. While I was inside exploring, my jet-lagged husband and daughter went outside, sat down, and fell asleep against a 2000-year-old column in a very busy and loud plaza. I should have taken a photo!
The Trevi Fountain
No trip to Rome is complete without a visit to the Trevi Fountain. Rome’s largest and most famous “Fontana di Trevi” was completed in 1762 and symbolizes “the two moods of the sea” and “taming of the waters.” This is the end-point of an ancient aqueduct dating back to 19 BC which fed clear water from Aqua Vergine. It got its name from the three streets which intersect at the fountain translating to Trivium or “tré vie.”
Still fun and famous today is a tradition ancient Romans began and every tourist must do! The ritual is to stand with your back to the fountain and toss a coin from your right hand over your left shoulder to ensure another visit to Rome. Long ago, they also tossed a coin, then drank a cup of water from the fountain, to ensure good fortune and a return to Rome. Today, no one drinks this water, but we all want to go back! Get your coins ready!
Hundreds of movies have been made in Rome, but here are a few involving the Trevi Fountain: In the 1960 film La Dolce Vita, Anita Ekberg wades into the fountain with Marcello Mastroianni. In the 1954 film Three Coins in the Fountain, three hopeful Americans visiting Italy fling their coins into the fountain.
Piazza Navona
One of Rome’s most popular plazas is a site once used for chariot races in the first century; it’s still in the shape of an oblong field and stadium. It was built by Emperor Domitian in 86 AD for athletic contests (called agones) and seated 30,000 Romans. In the 1600s, it took on its current look when Pope Innocent X commissioned a new church and palace around the plaza.
Bernini was commissioned to create the magnificent Fountain of the Four Rivers: the Nile, the Danube, the Río de la Plata, and the Ganges (the four great rivers of the world at that time). An Egyptian obelisk moved from the Appian Way sits above the fountain. Two other fountains complete the huge plaza: the Moor Fountain and Fountain of Neptune. Are you beginning to see a “water theme?” Rome has more functional fountains (over 2000) than any other city in the world.
Piazza Navona’s art market is a great place to buy keepsakes for your trip. This plaza had the best offering of watercolors and oil paintings we saw in Rome. Cafes and restaurants line the plaza; it’s a wonderful spot to eat and people watch.
Tip: If you know you plan to purchase pottery, wine, art, or other special items from a city you’re visiting, get it when you see it! More than once, I’ve regretted passing up a treasure I thought I would find at another location. You can often have it shipped home too!
Don’t be afraid to ask! The Santa Maria del Popolo Basilica
A great memory I have from Rome came about our last morning before taking the train to Florence. I personally wanted to visit the Santa Maria del Popolo Basilica (shown above), and My goal was to see two Caravaggio paintings I had studied in college, and to investigate the popular Chigi Chapel housing Bernini’s sculptures of Daniel and the Lion and Habakkuk and the Angel. (Note: My husband and daughter did not come along; they were pacing themselves regarding my art-overload).
My sister-in-law and I walked over to the massive Plaza del Popolo very early that morning only to find the door locked and the church closed. Hmmm….. Churches in Rome open early for locals to stop in and pray before starting the day. We were disappointed and asked a plaza policeman when the church might open. He suggested we go to the basilica side door and knock. Wait, what???
Out of curiosity, we found the side door and did knock, and a little man came to the door, keys jingling. Using my very-broken-Italian, I tried to ask when the church would open, explaining we were leaving Rome soon. He smiled and said in his much-better-English, “Ahh… you must be here to see its beauty. Come in!”
When we entered the church, it was still in total darkness. He began turning on lights and pointed us in the direction of one of the richest art collections in Rome. (You would never think such a jewel would be hidden just beyond that big door and simple facade!)
Treasures appeared as the church was filled with light. Bernini had his hand in sculpting saints and angels all around the altar and cornices, and he also designed the ornate organ loft case. The apse was designed by Bramante, and the basilica can boast it has the oldest stained-glass window in Rome.
The twelve side chapels were commissioned by Cardinals, Bishops, and rich families and are each uniquely decorated with artwork and sculptures. Sadly, the Chigi Chapel was being renovated, and the Bernini sculptures were covered in plastic for protection. Bummer! The Chigi Chapel, redesigned by Bernini, is also featured in Dan Brown’s book and film Angels and Demons.
We did, however, see the two Caravaggio paintings — The Conversion of Saint Paul and The Crucifixion of Saint Peter — in the beautiful Cerasi Chapel.

The Conversion of Saint Paul
The Crucifixion of Saint Peter
A very kind “keeper of the keys” allowed us a special private tour before he opened the doors to the public. I’m glad we asked, and I’ll never forget it!
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Not mentioned in detail but definitely worth seeing in Rome:
- Castel Sant’Angelo – a circular fort and castle complex (129 AD), now a part of Vatican City.
- The famous Spanish Steps – joining two popular plazas: Piazza di Spagna and Piazza Trinitá dei Monti. Photo Opp!
- Via Condotti – one of the most famous shopping streets in Rome near the Spanish Steps.
- The Circus Maximus – ruins of an ancient Roman chariot racing stadium/entertainment venue which could hold up to 150,000 spectators.
- Piazza del Popolo – one of Rome’s largest plazas with multiple churches, the Porta del Popolo gate, and a 3000-year-old obelisk at its center.
- Villa Borghese gardens – the most popular park in Rome and the Borghese Gallery and Museum.
- The bridges along the Tiber River and the ancient cobblestone streets.
The Castel Sant’Angelo and the pedestrian Ponte Sant’Angelo over the Tiber River
The Spanish Steps – A military band was performing, so we didn’t climb the famous steps!
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Now for the reality: Was visiting Rome worth it? Absolutely! It was a fascinating culture experience as I am a lover of history, art, architecture and food. Traveling to an ancient city inhabited over 3,000 years ago is enlightening, especially as it was my first time in Europe.
Is “jet lag” a real thing? Yes. Apparently traveling across multiple time zones can seriously mess with your internal clock. But you can bounce back pretty quickly.
Was June, 2011, the HOTTEST summer ever recorded in Rome history (or was I just menopausal)? I’m not sure, but it sure felt like it! Travel dates are often dictated by work and school schedules, but keep traveling…and hydrate!
Finally, did I get to see the Pope? Regrettably, no! And I’m not even a Catholic; I’m a Protestant. But, I wanted to experience the unique custom of being in St. Peter’s Square with a crowd of people on a Sunday, bells ringing, and seeing the pope (Pope Benedict, in 2011) appear from the window of his private study at midday to lead those gathered. [I’ve always thought the Pope held Papal Mass on Sundays, but no. He gives a short speech, a blessing and prays the Angelus. Papal Masses and Audiences are mostly held inside St. Peter’s Basilica on Wednesdays, and a ticket is required]. I wish I could tell you a glamorous story of why I missed seeing the pope, but we were simply at the airport waiting on a late plane and other travelers to join our Monograms’ tour group the morning we arrived in Rome. Again: plans sometimes get sidetracked. HOWEVER: I tossed my coins into the Trevi Fountain, so I expect to revisit Rome!
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And last, when in Rome, be prepared to EAT! Food in Italy is about culture and family. It’s simple, it’s not showy, it’s authentically fresh, and it’s delicious! Italians bless you with their food! Devour the pizza, try all the pastas, and drink Italian wine! Locals also suggest Saltimbocca, deep-fried artichokes, and Porchetta.
The four great Roman pasta dishes are Gricia, Caio e Pepe, Carbonara, and Amatriciana. Pizza Margherita was invented by a Naples chef in honor of Queen Margherita and Italy’s unification. The toppings are inspired by the national flag: red (tomato), white (mozzarella cheese), and green (basil).
My favorite dishes in Rome were Margherita pizza, pasta Carbonara and lemon gelato! Squisito!
Until next time, keep exploring! And, Ciao for now!
Stay tuned for upcoming travel blogs on The Amalfi Coast and Pompeii, as well as “essentials for an overnight flight.”
Tami Kooch https://traveltipsbytami.com
You’ve put so much love & inspiration into your blog. I’ve never wanted to travel outside of the States but now I would love to see Italy. I want to see all this for myself!
Thank you Teri! You would love it (and the food too!)
I am more of a ruins and landscape person instead of a sculpture and painting person but both are worth the time and effort to see. This was a wonderful trip.
Yes it was! Hopefully it was a good mix of both, and we certainly ate well!