Rising from the waters of a lagoon and a labyrinth of canals, Venice is like no other place in the world! Known as The Floating City and The Queen of the Adriatic, I urge you to get to this enchanting city at least once in your lifetime!
Seeing Venice for the first time is surreal! Cruising along the Grand Canal can transport you to a scene from a movie as you catch sight of palaces, stunning architecture, breathtaking churches, gondolas, and centuries of history. This dream city built on water is exhilarating, romantic . . . and crowded.
If you are in the city for a just a day, Enchanting Venice – Part One highlights must-see Venice attractions!
- The Grand Canal and Rialto Bridge
- St. Mark’s Square
- St. Mark’s Basilica and the Campanile
- Doge’s Palace and Bridge of Sighs
- A Gondola ride
Venezia was our last vacation stop on an adventurous trip through Italy with Monograms Independent Travel. We arrived at the Santa Lucia train station from Florence and had 2½ days to see the sights.
Monograms includes skip-the-lines tour(s) and a guide in each major city. We explored the Grand Canal, Rialto Bridge, took a walking tour to St. Mark’s Square/Basilica, toured the Doge’s Palace, Bridge of Sighs, and visited the Vecchia Murano Glass Factory. Then we were on our own to play in Venice! Monograms handles all the details and provides on-site experts to help with anything needed. They also supply private water taxi transportation to-and-from train stations and the airport. monograms.com
So, how did Venice become a floating city? Located in the extreme northeast of Italy, it took centuries to develop into what it is today. In the 2nd century BC, Illyrian tribes and Veneti fishermen built stilt huts and lived in the marshy lagoon. Romans arrived in the next century, seized the land, and named the locals “Venetians.”
Italian refugees fled Italy’s mainland from both Attila and the Huns (5th century) and Lombard invaders (6th century) causing overcrowded communities. A safe haven, shallow waters provided a natural defense barrier and prevented enemy ships from navigating the lagoon.
To transform it, canals were planned and dug out, islets were drained and enlarged, and 400 bridges eventually connected the urban plan of 118 small islands.
The city was built using a system of long wooden poles (tree trunks tightly bound together), driven down into the mud and seafloor. Next, two layers of wooden planks were layered crosswise to distribute weight; then stone and brick foundations were constructed. And voila! A water city began to emerge.
The mouth of the Grand Canal with the Baroque church Santa Maria della Salute
For more than 1000 years, the Venetian Republic was led by a Doge, the highest political leader of Venice and the symbol of sovereignty–who was appointed for life. The first doge was elected in 697. The last doge abdicated in 1797 when Napoleon Bonaparte conquered Venice and ended the Republican sovereignty.
Doge Alvise Giovanni Mocenigo
Despite challenges, the city raised over water has survived against all odds.
But, there’s a FLOOD problem! Not only is Venice flooded with mass tourism, Adriatic Sea high tides create flooding, called “Aqua Alta” (high water). Once rare, high tides are now common.
In 2019, more than 80% of Venice was underwater in one of the worst floods ever recorded. A controversial dam system to prevent flooding (the MOSE Project) has been added near the lagoon entrance forming an Adriatic Sea barrier. However, climate change protestors continue to battle habitat and ecosystem environmentalists.
Is it overcrowded? Is Venice becoming endangered? In 2019, following years of protests and a ten-year dispute, the Italian government banned big cruise ships from entering the Grand Canal near St. Mark’s Square to stop the flood of mass tourism.
Large cruise ships are no longer allowed in the Grand Canal (a photo from my 2011 trip)
In January 2023, Italy enacted a Tourist Entry Fee for day-trippers not staying overnight in Venice. To control tourism congestion, anyone entering the city must make a reservation and pay a fee (between €3 & €10). Verify before you go; the entry fee has not been enforced as of this writing (July 2023).
Tip: If you have several days in Venice, explore nearby islands and less-crowded districts during peak times when day-trippers and cruise ship passengers are testing their endurance on “must-see” sites. Wait until early evening to take a gondola ride, and book skip-the-line tours for St. Mark’s attractions.
The Grand Canal
Venice claims the most beautiful street in the world to be the Canal Grande! Also known as the Canalazzo, it divides Venice into two parts and snakes through the city in a reverse “S-shaped” course. Four bridges cross the Grand Canal, and it’s a about 2½ miles long.
My 2023 Map App view of Venice and the Grand Canal (it looks like a fish)
Not only is traveling the Grand Canal a perfect introduction to Venice and a way to connect to major sites, it’s a top attraction on its own. The only way to truly experience Venice is from the water!
The Grand Canal boasts a parade of 170 unique architectural buildings and Venetian attractions. It might look familiar as hundreds of movies have been filmed here. My favorite is The Tourist with Johhny Depp and Angelina Jolie.
Tip: You won’t see any cars: only boats and gondolas. Public transportation is by water-bus (called a Vaporetto) with 1, 2, 3 or 7-day tickets for travel around the Venetian lagoons. More expensive water taxi boats can be booked in advance to go anywhere 24-hours a day. To cross over (attraversiamo) to the other side of the canal at seven locations, take a gondola ferry (called a Traghetto). Locals pay 70 cents, but tourists pay €2 for the advantage of a quick trip.
The Rialto Bridge
For centuries, the only way to cross the Grand Canal on foot was the Rialto Bridge. Today, four bridges span the canal, but the famous Rialto is the oldest and the most crowded. The Ponte di Rialto was first built in the 12th century as a floating pontoon over the canal’s most narrow point so people could cross to the Rialto markets.
Venetian architect/engineer Antonio da Ponte (whose surname means “bridge”) beat out Michelangelo for the job and rebuilt the current bridge using a single arch design (1591). With no central support, the 12,000 wooden pilings driven into the lagoon still support the marble bridge almost 500 years later.
Shops (added temporarily to pay for construction) still line both sides of the Rialto between stepped walkways. You can purchase overpriced fine linens, Murano glass, Venetian masks, and jewelry.
Try to do both: see the Rialto from the Grand Canal and take in the views from the bridge. It’s charming in the evenings (and not as crowded) when all aglow with lights! We enjoyed a canal-view meal here one evening.
Saint Mark's Square (Piazza San Marco)
Aerial photo of St. Mark’s Square
Always busy, the heart of Venice is the massive Saint Mark’s Square (Piazza San Marco). Doges lived and ruled from this center of political power.
You’ll be surrounded by no shortage of monuments and attractions on all four sides: St. Mark’s Basilica, the Campanile, the Doge’s Palace, the Clocktower, the Correr and National Archaeological Museums, the Marciana Library, famous coffee houses, and oodles of pigeons.
St. Mark’s Square is also the lowest point in Venice and the first place to be flooded when high tides occur. Wooden footbridges are placed in the square for locals and tourists alike to “walk on water.”
Saint Mark's Basilica
Dominating the eastern end of Piazza San Marco, the exotic St. Mark’s Basilica is dedicated to the patron saint of the city, Mark the Evangelist. The church was created in 820 to house (and quite possibly guard) the relics of Mark, which were smuggled out of Alexandria, Egypt and brought to Venice.
St. Mark’s Basilica is not a short story. It’s an epic novel about the religious, social, and political history of the Republic of Venice. Until it became the Cathedral of Venice in 1807, St. Mark’s was the Doge’s private chapel. The basilica is connected to the Doge’s Palace, and the doge had a private passage to the church.
A fire in 927 destroyed the second church on this site. Rebuilt between 1043-71, the new church with five famous domes has a mix of Byzantine and Romanesque styles, plus a striking oriental blend of east and west (Gothic, Moorish, and Islamic).
Outside, arches and sculpted capitals are embellished with colorful mosaics and supported by countless marble columns. The glass panels of the upper center arch flood the church with light.
All over Venice, winged lions adorn flags, doors, bell towers, and buildings as a religious symbol of Mark the Evangelist (normally shown with wings, a halo and holding a book–The Gospel of Mark).
Above: Statue of St. Mark with angels, the winged lion, the Four Horses, and the basilica main door arch – The Last Judgment.
Four bronze Greek horses tower above the main entrance (the originals are housed in the Basilica Museum). They date from the 4th century BC and were stolen during the Crusades from the Constantinople Hippodrome in 1204. The horses stood on the terrace until 1798 when Napoleon looted them off to Paris, but Venice got them back in 1815.
The famous Horses of St. Mark’s Basilica – the originals after restoration
Tip: The inside of the Basilica is free to visit, but expect long, long lines. If time is an issue, pre-book a skip-the-lines tour, do a private evening tour when the church is closed, or sit quietly and admire the basilica during a Mass service. Remember: wear appropriate clothing for strict church dress codes and pack your binoculars for mosaic views.
A mosaic of Christ in glory- The Ascension covers the enormous central dome.
Inside, the Basilica is stunning! Nicknamed the Golden Church (Chiesa d’Oro), it glimmers with thousands (45,622 square feet) of gold mosaic glass tiles.
Built on a Greek cross plan, the church’s interior is intended to provide a glowing “heavenly” feeling symbolizing the light of paradise. It is rich in sculptures and paintings by Tintoretto, Veronese, and Titian. However, Venetian glass craftsmen are celebrated as the storytellers here depicting saints, prophets, and biblical scenes in mosaics.
Begin with a walk through the Atrium, or Narthex. Not only is the floor covered with impressive mosaics, look up to the golden arches supporting six mosaic domes illustrating Old and New Testament scenes. A few marble columns are said to have come from Solomon’s Temple in Jerusalem.
The golden mosaic atrium domes
St. Mark’s was inspired by Constantinople’s Church of the Apostles (destroyed in 1462). By decree of law in 1075, every ship returning from abroad was required to bring back a precious gift or jewel to adorn the basilica. Visit the church Treasury to see riches from Crusades and spoils of war.
The choir separates the church by a rood screen, an Oriental custom. Exotic marbled railings and columns support statues of the Virgin Mary and the Apostles. Behind the screen, St. Mark’s relics are held in an urn on the main altar.
Another valuable treasure is the Golden Altar Screen, known as the Pala d’Oro. The masterpiece was created by medieval goldsmiths (10th century) and is made up of 250 Byzantine enamel and gold panels encrusted with over 1900 diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, pearls, and topazes. A work in progress from 978 to 1345, Doge Pietro Orseolo first commissioned the screen while other doges added to and embellished it through the years.
The Golden Altarpiece (and below) a closeup of the centerpiece of the altar screen (Wow!)
While a majority of your time is spent gazing “up” at the celings, be sure to look “down” at the incredible marble mosaic floors dating from the 12th century. The basilica floors are filled with over 26,000 feet of intricate geometric designs, even of animals.
Campanille
As the tallest and one of the most recognizable landmarks in Venice, it’s hard to miss the church’s Campanile, or bell tower, in St. Mark’s Square.
The brick bell tower was originally built in 902 as a watchtower and lighthouse for navigating the lagoon. Because of high winds and lightening fires, it was constantly being restored. In 1902, the tower collapsed in the square (no one died). The city vowed to rebuild it exactly like the original on the same spot. Completed ten years later, it was dedicated on St. Mark’s Day: April 25, 1912.
The five Campanile bells rang for different reasons. The biggest or main bell, the Marangona, rang to announce the beginning and end of each workday. The Nona rang at midday. The smallest bell, the Renghiera, declared executions. Yikes! The Trottiera announced Council meetings and the Mezza Terza rang for Senate meetings.
For one of the best views of the square and Venice, take the elevator or climb the 323 steps to the top of the Campanile.
View of the Campanile and the Doge’s Palace
The Doge's Palace (the Palazzo Ducale)
A masterpiece of Gothic architecture, the Doge’s Palace (Palazzo Ducale) was the official residence of the Doge and the heart of the political life and administration of the Venetian Republic.
It looks nothing like it did 1100 years ago! The Doge’s Palace became a museum in 1923, but it began as a fort and castle built over Roman walls in the 10th and 11th centuries. For almost 1000 years, new doges renovated and radically changed the blueprint, mostly due to fires, in a repetitive cycle: build ⇒ catch fire ⇒ restore ⇒ repeat. Oh, to have a sprinkler system!
The Courtyard of the Doge’s Palace
Antony Rizzo’s Staircase of the Giants (15th century) in the courtyard of the Doge’s Palace
The coronation of doges took place in the gallery at the top of the Giants’ Staircase, once the official entrance to the palace. Below the Lion of Mark, two statues symbolize Venice’s trading power and dominion on the mainland (Mars) and the sea (Neptune).
Between the 11th and 12th centuries, the fortified castle was transformed into a palace. New Byzantine-Venetian structures were added to house courtrooms, legal offices, council meeting rooms, plus a jail.
Because of an abundance of fires and restoration (the 13th through 17th centuries), the building gradually received a whole new look. An Istrian stone Gothic logia and arched arcade were built around the palace. Above the logia, two corner walls were reconstructed in a Veronese pink marble herringbone pattern.
Inside, a tour of the Doge’s Palace spans three floors of historical and elaborate rooms (covered head-to-toe with a treasure of paintings), the doge’s private apartments, a map room, and armory. It eventually leads to the Bridge of Sighs which connects to the new prison added in the 1600s.
The 16th century Golden Staircase (Scala d’Oro) is used reach the upper floors of the palace. The barrel-vaulted stucco and pure gold ceiling was sculpted and gilded by Alessandro Vittoria. Giambattista Franco painted the frescoes.
The Scala d’Oro (above) and a close-up (below)
Note: I never miss a chance to photograph interesting ancient roads, floors and doors. This marble inlaid floor was created as an optical illusion to “fool the eye” (called Trompe l’oeil).
Considering his power, the doge’s private apartments were beautiful, but small and modest as a reminder of his servant role to the Republic. The apartments were completely rebuilt after a fire in 1483.
Doges were elected for life, so each new doge brought furnishings from his private home (most likely a palace) for his apartments. Furnishings were returned to the doge’s heirs after his death. Today, these spaces are used for temporary exhibits.
Renaissance fireplace and ceiling in the Doge’s apartments
With 20 or more spectacular rooms, halls, and chambers, below are just a few:
Venice’s Senate Council was founded in the 13th century to discuss and deal with foreign affairs. The doge and 200 Senators met in the impressive Senate Chamber (Sala del Senato).
The Senate Chamber: Can you imagine coming to work in this room?
The elaborate Baroque ceiling was designed by Cristoforo Sorte. With Christ as the main theme in this room, the wall and ceiling paintings are by Tintoretto, Veronese, and their students.
Senate Chamber Ceiling close-up (and a pot of gold)
The College Chamber (Sala del Collegio) was designed by Palladio and Rusconi. The Full College, elected by the Senate, met in this room to receive ambassadors and discuss matters of state. Tintoretto painted the room panels, but the 11 ceiling panels by Veronese are the masterpieces in this room.
Napoleon plundered art from all over Venice, including paintings from this ceiling–now in the Louvre in Paris.
Masterpieces by Veronese in the College Chamber ceiling
The meeting hall of the powerful and feared Council of Ten (Sala del Consiglio dei Dieci) was founded in 1310 to protect state security and provide justice after a revolt against the doge. A passageway from this room led to the torture chamber and the prisons. No one wanted to end up before this Council!
The Council of Ten Hall
Built to accommodate the most powerful governing body of the Venetian Republic (up to 2000 members), the largest room in the palace is the Chamber of the Great Council (Sala del Maggior Consiglio). The Council (all wealthy Venetian males over 25) elected doges, magistrates, and ratified laws.
The Great Council Chamber
The room was originally decorated by some of the greatest artists of the 14th century, but everything was lost to a fire in 1577. Now restored, the walls and 35 ceiling panels are painted by Veronese, the Tintorettos, and others with themes of Venetian history and Christian virtues. On three sides of the hall, Tintoretto also painted 76 portraits of former doges.
Don’t miss Tintoretto’s painting Paradise, the largest oil painting on canvas in the world. It dominates the entire wall behind the seat of the doge. Tintoretto’s son helped him finish it.
Paradise by Jacapo and Domenica Tintoretto (1588-92)
Next is one of the most famous bridges in the world, the Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri), built by Antonio Contino in 1600. The enclosed bridge connected the Doge’s Palace to the new prison. Prisoners would have taken this route to their cells after sentencing.
The Bridge of Sighs
The bridge contains two separate corridors built side-by-side with different canal views. Visitors cross one side of the bridge to see the prison and the other side to return to the palace.
It was nicknamed the bridge of “Sighs” in the 1700s. It refers to the sighs of prisoners both being led to trial or returning to prison–likely to never see their freedom, or Venice, again.
A prisoner’s view from the Bridge of Sighs
Before the new prison, offenders were confined in either the Pozzi or Piombi jails. The dark and damp Pozzi dungeon (the Wells) was built in the 1200s. In the late 1500s, an attic prison was added known as the Piombi (the Leads). Built directly under the lead roof, prisoners accused of political crimes could either die from extreme heat or cold awaiting sentencing.
No gold gilding or masterpieces in the Piombi prisons
Note: Giacomo Cassanova (the charming womanizer) escaped from the Piombi prison in 1756. He wrote a biography describing his escape and also claims to have stopped for coffee in St. Mark’s Square after his getaway.
Take a Gondola Ride
Finally, take a relaxing gondola ride before leaving Venice. Just do it!
Although most gondoliers have a set fee, attempt to negotiate and agree on a price, the route, and length of time. Expect to pay more after 7 p.m. (most likely €100), and even more if you’d like to be serenaded by music and/or singing. Most gondolas can hold up to six people–five if you have an accordion player along for the fun. Rides typically last 30-40 minutes.
The water is calling; go make some memories!
Our gondola ride with S.M. Del Giglio, one of the oldest gondola companies in Venice. For more than 30 years, both our gondolier and accordion player had made this their calling.
Next up: If you have more than one day, Enchanting Venice – Part Two will explore nearby neighborhoods (like the Jewish Ghetto); must-see museums (like the Peggy Guggenheim Collection) and historical churches (Santa Maria della Salute), architectural landmarks (Ca d’Oro), and nearby islands (like Murano).
Until then, keep exploring! And, ciao for now!
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Tami Kooch
Very interesting and great pictures!
Thank you Susan!
What an amazing place! This was a trip of a lifetime and one I will always remember. My main job on this trip was to navigate us around the cities when we were not on a Monograms tour. Before we got to Venice, I was warned that I would get lost in the alleys of Venice. I didn’t believe I would. After seeing the same store three times one night, I realized I was leading us in circles and we were lost. Yes, I stopped and asked for directions. I can admit that now.
Yes! You were our great navigator for two weeks. Without Google maps or GPS roaming in 2011, I think anyone would get lost in Venice. We realized that was all part of the fun! I think we crossed half of the 400 bridges trying to find our way back to the hotel. But overall, I would do it all again!
I really enjoyed this tour. Your photos are better than mine!
Thanks Jeanette. I used my good Canon camera; the international cell phone I had in 2011 did not take photos. I’m also grateful for a few pics from a friend who visited Venice in 2019.