If you step back in time and experience all this country has to offer, it won’t take you long to fall in love with Greece. Go ahead and add it to your Life Adventure List!
This past spring, we rented a car and drove, hiked, climbed, and honestly “ate” our way across Greece. My husband and I island-hopped to Santorini first. Then in Athens, we met up with family and logged over 1650 driving miles discovering Greece’s mainland (its mountains, harbors, coastline, and historical cities Athens, Corinth, Philippi, and Thessaloniki). We criss-crossed the Peloponnese, explored the birthplace of the ancient Olympic Games, were awe inspired by mystical Delphi and Holy Meteora, and followed the footsteps of the Apostle Paul.
Our Greece journey began in Santorini
Santorini, the shining star of the Aegean Sea, is definitely a bucket list destination! It’s part of the Cyclades island group, but locals will remind you it’s a volcano, not an island. WHO WOULD NOT be interested in:
- waking up above the cliffs of a volcano in a whitewashed Clycladic cave house?
- romantic sunsets and breathtaking views?
- famous blue dome churches?
- the remains of one of the oldest civilizations?
- red, black, and white volcanic sand beaches?
- famous Greek vineyards and wineries?
- hiking along a volcano clifftop trail?
- endless photo opportunities?
- and really, really good food?
Santorini has it all!
Sometimes called “the Lost City of Atlantis,” the five islands making up Santorini are officially called Thira (THEE-rah) by the Greeks. Everyone else calls it Santorini– named from the Venetian cathedral “Santa Irini,” or Saint Irene, which is no longer on the island.
Both volcanic eruptions (the worst of which occurred in the 17th century BC) and devastating earthquakes (especially in 1956), continue to shape the landscape of Santorini.
The island is what remains of a collapsed volcano crater. Thousands of years ago, one of the largest eruptions ever recorded caused the island volcano to sink, leaving a flooded caldera (or crater) surrounded by cliffs of volcanic ash deposits and layers of lava.
Today, white-washed villages hug the cliffs a thousand feet above the Aegean Sea on the crescent-shaped 15-mile main island. This travel blog will focus on northern Santorini and the popular villages of Fira (also called Thira/Thera), Firostefani, Imerovigli, and dreamy Oia.
You can get there quickly by flying into Santorini’s airport (45 minutes from Athens) or take the scenic route and arrive by ferry or catamaran at the port of Athinios on the southwest side of the island. It’s the most popular cruise ship destination in the Greek Isles, and passengers tender in to the Skala Old Port–just below the cliffs of Fira.
THE BEST TIME to visit Santorini is a huge debate. In my opinion, it depends on your preferences, schedule, and your wallet– so, go when it’s most convenient for you.
Nearly all would say the best time to avoid extreme heat and crowds is during Europe’s spring (April and May) and early fall (late-September and October). Restaurants, shops, and hotels are open, the weather and water are nice, and you’ll avoid the smothering June through August cruise-ship crowds.
However, flights to Greece and lodging costs are almost doubled. Santorini suffers from unrestrained tourism crowds, even in the shoulder seasons. Book EARLY!
In the steamy summer, temperatures can top 100º F, hotel and food prices are staggering, parking is rare, traffic can be at a standstill, and you’ll be shoulder-to-shoulder with thousands to see the sunsets, main sights, and to eat.
Summer, however, has very little rain and is great for sightseeing and water activities: diving, snorkeling, beach bumming, and catamaran sunset sailing. It may be MISERABLY hot and crowded, but it’s gorgeous!
November to March is considered “winter season.” Many resorts and restaurants close for the cooler season, but a good bit of restaurants, shops, hotels and airbnbs remain open and are affordable. Attractions and museums are discounted, and it is wonderfully quiet! Getting around, parking, eating, and catching the sunset is a breeze.
On the down side: Rain is possible. Museums, attractions, and some shops close early, and it’s likely too cold for swimming. Also, construction and maintenance projects are required to take place in winter season.
All that to say: We flew to Santorini from Athens, rented a car, and stayed in Imerovigli (between Fira and Oia). Because of some scheduling changes and a canceled mainland tour, we found ourselves traveling independently in Greece the last two weeks of March. We had the benefit of winter rates and no crowds. . . just two weeks before the busy season began.
TIP: If you rent a car anywhere in Greece, you’ll need to get an International Driver’s Permit (IDP) before you go. We secured our permits at AAA Travel, one of only two private entities in the US authorized by the U.S. Department of State (AATA is the other). With your valid driver’s license and $20, you’ll be driver permit ready in minutes. And don’t forget travel insurance! http://www.aaa.com
Fira, the Capital
The lively cliff-side hub and capital of Santorini is Fira (FEE-rah).
A view of Fira from the hiking path
Just minutes from the airport, ferry ports, and cruise ships, Fira’s cliffside village has several museums, beautiful churches and monasteries. For travelers, it overflows with Cycladic hotel villas and airbnbs.
Grab a map or your phone GPS to better understand Fira’s quirky layout. Because neighborhoods developed and grew up around churches and monasteries, Fira doesn’t really follow an organized town plan.
Fira hotels and villas overlooking the caldera
Fira offers both souvenir, antique, and authentic artisan shops, ceramic and pottery stores, art galleries, and plenty of restaurants, bars, cafes and gelato stands. The famed Gold Street still features more than 40 jewelers.
Layered tiers of pedestrian walkways form a maze between the lower cliff sections and the main drivable road (25 Martou) where you’ll find parking, taxi stands, and bus stops. We also found Diet Coke at the grocery store!
Shops (and mules) along the Erithrou Stavrou walkway
Cruise ships tender in to the Skala (Gialos) Old Port below Fira, and more than 12,000 tourists arrive each day in peak season. Travelers can reach town by cable car, by donkey or by walking the 588 steps.
Zig-zag steps down to Fira’s old port
The fastest way to Fira from the port is the cable car. It runs every 20 minutes, and a one-way ride takes three minutes. Just know: the cable car line wraps around the old port and can be dreadfully long when several cruise ships are in port. A staggering note: Santorini handled 112 cruise ships in June of 2023.
2023 prices: Adults 6€, children 3€, and luggage 3€.
Worth the wait, the views from the cable car are breathtaking!
Prefer to walk up the cliff? Factor in your conditioning, the heat, plus look out for the donkey poo when making the demanding climb up the steps.
As a reminder of your progress, all 588 steps are numbered.
Option three is to take a traditional ride on a donkey or mule partway up the path and climb the remaining 125 steps to the top (not a great option for children, the elderly, or heavy luggage). And, rumor has it animal rights’ activists will not be cheering you on.
The price is 10€ per person for a ride up or down the caldera, and it takes 25-35 minutes.
Mules and donkeys for a traditional Greek ride up to Fira.
Obviously, Fira is Santorini’s busiest area and also serves as the hub for excursions to Oia, churches, museums, beaches, wineries, the lighthouse and archaeological sites.
Fira has two exceptional museums: the Archaeological Museum of Fira showcases the long history of the island from the early Cycladic, Archaic, Roman and Hellenistic periods. The Museum of Prehistoric Thira helps piece together the story of the ancient Minoan civilization in Akrotiri.
The Fisherman Fresco from the Akrotiri archaeology site
Much like Pompeii, Akrotiri was buried in time, and ash, some 3,500 years ago from a volcano eruption in the 15th century BC. Explore the actual Akrotiri archaeology site on the southern tip of Santorini (featured in my next blog).
Cathedral of St. John the Baptist
Several churches in upper Fira have ties to Venice. Between 1200 and 1579 AD, the island was part of the Byzantine Empire and ruled by the Venetians (called the “Franks” by locals). Venetian trade merchants and ship captains settled here as they traveled between Europe and the Middle East.
Stop by the Catholic Cathedral of St. John the Baptist (founded in 1204) or the church for the Catholic Monastery of Dominican Sisters (1595), one of the oldest Roman Catholic convents in Greece. Both churches and the convent were either repaired or rebuilt after the 1956 earthquake.
The Church of Our Lady of the Rosary – the chapel for the Dominican nunnery.
The Metropolitan Cathedral of Santorini’s impressive white dome can be seen all over Santorini.
The other end of Fira is anchored by two landmarks: Hotel Atlantis and the massive Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral of Santorini (1827) which is famous for its mosaics, rolling arches, and crown-like dome. Below this upper-rim area is a labyrinth of Cycladic houses and churches overlooking the Aegean.
Church domes are dotted here and there throughout all the villages.
Firostefani and Imerovigli
Between Fira and Oia are the higher up and quieter villages of Firostefani and Imerovigli. The secret is out: travelers have realized the views and sunsets are just as phenomenal and have gravitated to these two little villages to escape the crowds.
Today, Firostefani is more of an extension of Fira (about a 10-15 minute walk), but it was once a separate village built higher on the caldera. Fira + Stefani means “crown” in Greek.
View of Firostefani from Imerovigli
Walking the famous coastal path between Fira and Oia will take you through the village. The church of Saint Gerasimos, erected in 1807, is also perched on Firostefani’s rocky hillside overlooking the caldera.
Not only is this little cliffside village popular for panoramic villas, great restaurants and bars, it boasts one of the most sought after blue dome churches: The Three Bells of Fira.
Officially known as the Catholic Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary or Agios Theodori (1757), the iconic church is one of the most famous landmarks in Greece. Inside is a precious icon of the Virgin Mary brought to the island from Russia in 1570.
The church is not always open to the public, but everyone who finds it can photograph the bells and its blue dome.
TIP: You’ll come upon the church on the walking trail to Oia, but you won’t be able to see the dome. (I’ll give details in my next blog: Santorini: Off the Beaten Path for where and how to park and/or walk to take the perfect postcard photograph).
About two miles or a 35-to-40 minute walk from Fira, upscale Imerovigli is known as the breathtaking “balcony to the Aegean” and is set on the highest point of the caldera rim.
Caldera views from Imerovigli
With a mixture of whitewashed Cycladic and authentic cave houses, it’s a traditional, quiet village with fine-dining restaurants, boutique hotels, stunning views and epic sunsets!
Note: We stayed in Imerovigli, and the above photo is from the porch of our airbnb, Pure Vida Villa. You’ll also pass through this village on the scenic walkway from Fira to Oia.
Views from our rooftop patio. We decided this looked like a warship.
Imerovigli means “watchtower or daily watch.” This entire area was once a look-out station to protect islanders from pirate raids.
Panagia Malteza was just to the right of our Imerovigli villa. They had begun cleaning, painting, and prepping for the busy season to begin.
Overlooking the caldera, the Church of the Holy Resurrection of the Lord (or Panagia Malteza Church) is known for an icon of the Virgin Mary along with a beautifully carved wooden screen depicting scenes from the Old Testament. And, what a view!
The Skaros Fortress was one of the five fortified settlements built by the Venetians to protect islanders from pirate attacks. Ruins of the medieval castle of Skaros, built by Maarco Sanudo in 1207, jut out into the caldera.
Climb up, up, up the Skaros Rock steps for great views or climb down to find the hidden Chapel of Panagia Theoskepasti.
When Venetians ruled, Imerovigli was the medieval island capital called “Epano Kastro” (upper castle in Greek). Both the castle and lookout fortress were destroyed by earthquakes, leaving only ruins. Eventually, islanders moved toward Fira and created a new capital.
A view of Skaros Rock (left) with Imerovigli (on the right) taken from the Fira to Oia walking trail.
Oia
If you close your eyes and think about romantic Greece, chances are you’ll picture Oia–the most photographed jewel of Santorini.
The iconic Santorini postcard view with five blue-domed churches
Beautiful Oia (pronounced EE-ah) sits at the northwest tip of the island, six miles from Fira, and it was established in the 1400s. It is world famous for Santorini sunsets, ancient windmills, Cycladic cave houses, blue dome churches, and fresh seafood.
Most of Oia was destroyed from the 1956 earthquake (7.8 on the Richter scale) followed by a tsunami. Locals rebuilt slowly in traditional Cycladic architectural styles, and today those mansions and cave houses are worth millions as resort hotels and airbnbs.
An evening in Oia after the sunset
Each day at dusk, people (sooooo many people) from every corner of the world pause and wait for the sun to disappear into the Aegean Sea. In peak season, you better find a spot long before the sun goes down! This might be a good time to mention that sunrises in Oia are delightful and uncrowded!
Three ways to escape the Oia crowds at dusk: book dinner reservations at a sunset view restaurant, walk down to Amoudi Bay, or splurge for an Oia sunset view hotel or villa.
Oia windmill
Luckily, Oia has more to offer than sunsets. At one time, it was the island’s most prosperous and busy maritime village with hundreds of trade ships and seven shipyards. In a beautiful old Captain’s house, the Naval Maritime Museum covers the nautical history of the island with anchors, old ship models, rare figureheads, photographs and watercolors. (Open April to November)
Wealthy sea captains built and lived in the big mansions at the top of the village. Their poor crewmen and other laborers literally “dug out” the tiny cliffhanging caves below for housing.
Luxury hotel suites and residences in eastern Oia
A majority of Oia shops and restaurants are along the more level marble rim walkway, Nikolaos Nomikou. Below it, hotels and airbnb villas slope down to the sea with lots of stairs. Like the other caldera villages, Oia was not created for baby strollers or high heels!
Almost impassible in peak season, Oia’s main walkway looks uninhabited an hour after our late-March sunset.
Now in ruins, the Oia Castle of Agios Nikolaos was built as a defensive Venetian fortress and watchtower. Part of the tower is all that remains of the Argyri family home after the 1956 earthquake.
Oia Castle is normally very crowded before the sun sets.
Check out the castle ruins (also known as Fort Londsa) built at the tip of the island, and stay for prime sunset photos with 360º views! Keep walking around the caldera for more sunset opportunities, plus the old windmills.
Santorini is a windy island and home to some 70 historic windmills.
Burrowed in red volcanic rock just below Oia is the tiny fishing village Amoudi Bay. From Oia, walk or ride a donkey down to the bay or drive down Venizelou Street, which has limited parking.
Reserve a spot for the sunset and enjoy the fresh fish and grilled octopus.
Oia has an abundance of blue dome churches, and everyone wants to photograph them. In my upcoming travel blog, I’ll map out exactly how to find them in Oia’s maze of Cycladic cave houses.
The blue domes of the Church of the Resurrection and Saint Spyridon. (Props to my hubby who took this picture)
Are you simply in Oia to escape and relax? Charming Atlantis Books is on the list as one of best little bookstores in the world with unique rare books, pre-loved books, the latest bestsellers, and maybe even a napping cap. Try it for sunset readings and the Caldera Arts and Literature Festival.
Few things make me happier than to sit and read and look at the sea!
Now for the reality:
Will you miss the sunset if you don’t go to Oia? Not at all. Unless it’s storming, Santorini boasts amazing sunset opportunities everywhere: Fira, the Akrotiri lighthouse, the walking trail from Fira to Oia, and especially Imerovigli. I’ve heard an island story that “Fira taxi drivers convince tourists the best sunsets are in Oia (on the far end of the island) to increase their fares and profits.”
OMG, what’s the tissue issue? Pack your potpourri spray (and perhaps some wet wipes) because you cannot flush toilet paper anywhere in Greece. Anywhere. Thankfully our friends who visited Greece last November warned us about this never mentioned fact! Apparently Greek sewage pipes are 2″ in diameter, compared to 4″ pipes in the US and the UK, and therein lies the CLOG. So, all paper must be placed in the “bin” or trash can. We were reminded “toilet paper wasn’t invented until the 1900’s, and Greece is an ancient civilization.” Honestly, it wasn’t a big stinky deal, and we now understand why housekeeping appears twice a day!
Stay tuned for my upcoming travel blog where we’ll venture off the beaten path in search of Santorini’s beaches, its lighthouse, the ancient Akrotiri archaeological site, plus some hidden treasures. I’ll tell you how and where to locate some difficult-to-find blue dome churches and the best way to explore the Fira to Oia hiking path.
Until then, keep exploring!
For AAA travel assistance, trip insurance, or to get your International Driver’s Permit. https://aaa.com
Visit my blogsite: https://traveltipsbytami.com
Tami Kooch
What a wonderful place to relax. If you go, you will fall in love with Santorini. Having my private tour guide made this one of my favorite trips. Exploring the island in a car provided us opportunities to go places we would not have otherwise. One more tip, be sure to take photos of your rental car when picking it up because roads are rough and roads are narrow. To say we covered Santorini from end to end is an understatement. Red Beach,Black Beach, Light houses and ruins– we saw it all. Thanks to my wife/private guide for finding all of these jewels and making sure we saw them all. Oh, and yes we saw our share of sunsets in Oia and glad we did. Memories of a lifetime.
It was certainly a dreamy place to celebrate our 35th anniversary! Thank you for being my travel partner and THE NAVIGATOR!
WOW WOW WOW I want to go immediately!!! Thanks for sharing!!!!💗💗💗
Thanks Linda! YOU are the world traveler!
Great article! Loved reading it.
Thanks Chris!
Tami, you should sell your photographs! You have a great eye. I was able to enjoy the sights without any stairs.
Merci,
Pat
Thank you Pat! I took SO many pictures in Greece, especially Santorini. Lots of steps; there are no escalators (paperclips) like our favorite Metro in Paris.
Thank you, Tami. This was wonderful, although those gorgeous photos make my heart break. I just saw the movie, Fat Greek Wedding 3. It was boring but had good views. Wish I knew where it was filmed.
Congratulations on your adventures: trip and marriage.
Jeannette
Thanks Jeanette! We loved Santorini! My Big Fat Greek Wedding 3 was filmed on Greece’s mainland (mainly Athens) and the islands of Corfu and Santorini, plus has coastline views of islands Paros, Hydra, and Crete. I researched it when I started my blog knowing the movie was coming out soon. Apparently the Santorini shoot was at night for a wedding scene, but I haven’t seen the movie yet (hopefully next week).
Tami, your photos are amazing! Thank you for your tips to make the most of a trip to Santorini!
Jeanne
Thanks Jeanne! We need to go back!