It is well worth a day trip from Rome to visit the ruins of Pompeii and drive Italy’s beautiful Amalfi Coastline! Florence and Venice were our next destinations, but we couldn’t pass up this mysterious and magical part of Italy.
With the help and suggestions of AAA Travel and Monograms (our tour company for this trip), I arranged a small private day trip for five of us (my husband and daughter, my sister-in-law, her lifelong friend, and me.). We still use Viator.com (a booking app), when planning activities. (Scroll to the bottom for links to these sites).
Today from Rome, you can drive, take the train or a bus, or schedule a private guide or motor coach tour to Naples, Sorrento, Pompeii, and even to the Amalfi Coast.
Plan for a long day; our tour lasted 12-13 hours. Our driver and guide, Alan, did all the navigating. He arranged a private guided tour in Pompeii, a stop in Sorrento, lunch in Positano with free time to explore, and lots of photo-opportunity stops. He also educated us on the Campania region and southern Italy history along the way.
Pompeii
Our Pompeii guide and our daughter at an ancient water fountain.
Below the base of Mount Vesuvius lies the ancient city of Pompeii. In 62 AD, an earthquake shook the city which might have been a forecast of coming tragedy.
After being dormant for centuries, Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD. In one afternoon, Pompeii was buried beneath a 20-foot shower of volcanic ash and pumice. By the next day, the cone of the volcano collapsed, and clouds of scalding, hurricane-force hot gases and burning rocks decimated the area, its residents, and destroyed anything in its path. It created a city petrified in time.
Those who didn’t heed the volcano rumbles and warnings to escape either suffocated or were incinerated. The city was buried for centuries until its ruins were found in the 1600s. Excavations began in 1748.
The volcanic eruption killed more than 1,200 Pompeii inhabitants and some 16,000 people around the Gulf of Naples.
Pompeii is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most popular tourist attractions in Italy.
Pompeii streets made from Mount Vesuvius lava slabs
Our day trip included a small group private guide and walk through Pompeii’s archaeological ruins. If you are traveling solo, you can pre-book a guided tour. Don’t get scammed by the people selling fake tickets outside the three entrances.
How long should you plan to visit? It depends on your time constraints and interest: we took the 2-hour Pompeii highlights tour. Beyond a half-day or full-day, some visitors even plan two days to visit Pompeii, Mount Vesuvius and the nearby Herculaneum ruins.
Archaeological work still continues today. Pompeii has become the longest continually excavated site in the world. It now spans 160 acres and is divided by nine archaeological regions.
Since 2013, with government support and new excavation efforts, dozens of passageways and more than 40 buildings have been restored and opened to the public (all of this since our 2011 visit).
Pompeii was originally settled by the Etruscans and Greeks. But when Mount Vesuvius erupted, Pompeii was a wealthy Roman city with a population of about 20,000 people. An important trade route ran through the area, the Bay of Naples was nearby, and the land was an agriculture dream.
The Temple of Jupiter and the Forum
Also known as the Capitolium, the Temple of Jupiter is located on the north side of Pompeii, with Mount Vesuvius looming behind it. In line with Rome, the temple was dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva–the most important gods on Mount Olympus in Greece.
The Civil Forum was the hub of daily life. In addition to temple worship, it included markets, trade activities, and public buildings.
The Basilica
The Basilica dates back to 130-120 BC and is the oldest and most important public building in Pompeii. Although it was called a basilica, it wasn’t a church. It was used for justice, court hearings, and business matters. Its three large sections were once divided by 28 large brick columns.
The Thermopolium and a Bakery
Our guide, Enzo, at the Thermopolium. Over 90 of these small cook shops have been excavated; they sold hot food for Pompeii visitors or lower class citizens. Only wealthy homes had kitchens.
More than 30 bakeries, mills, and brick ovens have been excavated. The milling and baking business was very profitable in Pompeii. Archaeologists found carbonized loaves of bread (still in ovens), proving residents were going about their daily lives when the volcano erupted.
House of the Faun
Covering an entire city block, the House of the Faun dates back to the 2nd century BC. It was a grand palace: the largest and most expensive residence in Pompeii owned by the wealthy patrician Casii. The villa is named after its bronze statue of a dancing faun (half human, half goat).
The layers of ash from the volcano eruption actually preserved artwork, mosaics, and statues.
Most of the original artwork from the palace has been relocated to the National Archaeological Museum in Naples, including the Alexander Mosaic (a depiction of the 333 BC Battle of of Issus between Alexander the Great and Darius III of Persia).
Toilet paper?
Public toilets were added in Pompeii after the earthquake in 62 AD. A drain ran around all three walls. Stone or wooden seats were placed near one another, and both males and females shared the toilets. I’m guessing this did not smell lemony fresh!
Thermae Pompeii
There were three main public baths in Pompeii: the Stabian Baths, the Central Baths and the Forum Baths. Bathing was a big deal for Romans, and bath houses were massive! Water was supplied from aqueducts, the River Sarno, and local wells. Men and women bathed separately and had different dressing rooms. Bathing options: frigidarium (for cold baths), tepidarium (medium temperature baths) or calidarium (hot baths).
Via dell’ Abbondanza and Via Mercurio streets
The city has been excavated and often reconstructed, but Pompeii’s streets are the exception to the rule. I photograph streets and roads everywhere and enjoy learning their history and who might have walked their pathways.
Some streets were made of Mount Vesuvius lava, while others were constructed from lime cement or terracotta pavements, which used Roman engineering and even water conduits.
The many large stepping stones laid across Pompeii’s roadways kept citizens from walking “on the street” and into water, mud, horse and donkey manure, plus human waste being tossed out daily.
The roads also have visible ruts from wagon carts and chariots. Have you ever been “stuck in a rut?”
Archaeological finds and Casts are now stored in the Forum Granary.
The Casts of Pompeii
During the excavations of Pompeii, the remains of over 1000 victims have been found.
The people of Pompeii who died from the volcano’s poisonous gases were preserved in a protective shell of ash. Once decayed, they left voids in the ash in their exact forms.
In 1870, Italian archaeologist Giuseppe Fiorelli and his team devised a method to reconstruct their bodies. They added liquid plaster into the cavities left by people, animals and objects.
Once the plaster hardened, the ash layers were chipped away, and the resulting form was eerily brought to life reflecting their final moments.
The Garden of the Fugitives (below) shows casts of 13 victims found in one place who sought refuge in a fruit orchard.
Lupanar – The Brothels of Pompeii
The Vicolo del Lupanare was a two-story brothel in Pompeii–one of 25 brothels archaeologists have discovered. Prostitution was legal and socially accepted by the Romans.
Because Pompeii was both a port and trade-route city, sailors and tradesmen, plus married men living in Pompeii, frequented brothels. While prostitution was legal, adultery was outlawed.
Because some travelers or sailors didn’t speak Latin, graphic paintings of sexual acts were frescoed above each room. Patrons could simply “point” to their menu choice. Erotic graffiti comments can still be seen on brothel walls.
The brothels are named from lupa, a latin word meaning “prostitute.” Pompeii prostitutes were often Greek or Oriental slaves. This brothel had 10 rooms on two separate floors with stone beds.
How did customers find brothels in the city? It was not by a yellow brick road! Phallic symbols carved into and all over city walls and streets literally “pointed” the way. It wasn’t until our guide “pointed it out” that we began seeing “male body parts” all over Pompeii.
Tip: If you are traveling with children or teenagers (our daughter was in high school), consider yourself warned. Either avoid the brothel part of the tour, or you might have “some explaining to do” about Sin City!
So, we saw the Pompeii highlights (and some low points). We did not walk the distance to see the oldest amphitheater in the Roman world, the large Grand Theatre, or the smaller Odeon Theatre. And today, so much more of Pompeii has been excavated for us all to see.
Sorrento, the Amalfi Coast and Positano
From Pompeii, our driver headed toward Sorrento to begin our scenic drive on the Amalfi Coast. The 36-miles between Sorrento and Salerno have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1977, and it is listed as one of the most beautiful drives in the world.
Tip: Please leave the driving to the professionals on the challenging cliffside (and sometimes one-lane) Amalfi Coast roads.
In June 2022, Italy issued new Peak Season Rules–both restricting or banning (on certain days) rental cars and large tour buses. If you rent a car and drive, investigate the new coastline license plate system before you go.
Sorrento is a pretty coastal town and popular tourist destination famous for its sea cliffs and sunsets.
It’s a great home base for visiting Naples, Pompeii, boating over to Capri, or traveling the Amalfi Coast. It faces the Bay of Naples and has beautiful views, popular beach clubs, fishing villages, parks and gardens.
From the Roman ruins at the Punta del Capo to the Monastery of St. Francesco, Piazza Tasso (cafes and shops), the historical center, and museums, Sorrento has plenty to offer.
It’s known for its fresh fish and local wines, but it is famous for lemon groves and its most well-known export: limoncello liqueur. Pick up a bottle and sip some Limoncello!
Buckle-up for an adventurous, yet sometimes terrifying, drive like none other. We were headed to Positano, but there are many worthwhile towns and villages to explore along the Amalfi Coast.
Alan, the guide we had been with all day, quickly went from our chauffeur to “the skilled daredevil” of the steep and narrow cliffside roads. Somehow he dodged buses and scooters while managing to point out historical sights and photo opportunities. Hiring an experienced driver is money well spent!
Drivers have their own language–honking horns and flashing lights–to communicate concerning oncoming buses, one-lane sections, or problems.
Automobiles are expected to back-up, in reverse, to allow buses to cross tiny bridges or navigate narrow passes.
While our driver was busy keeping us alive, we joined the other tourists in the “leaning out the window to get the perfect photo” club. (My apologies for some of my blurry pics). Luckily, we stopped several times for STILL photographs.
The scenery is breathtaking along the coast! Part of the larger Mediterranean Sea, the Tyrrhenian Sea’s gorgeous blue water provides postcard perfect photos.
And around every curve is another great view. Homes are built into rock walls and cling to the cliffs above hidden coves. Sailboats and luxury yachts dot the coastline.
Our day included a mixture of fog mist, clouds, and sunshine, but the views were stunning! Keep your eyes open for lemon groves, vineyards, tunnels, and caves along the route below the Monti Lattari mountain range.
Several tourist stops for making photos are provided along the coast. If you are adventurous, the Path of the Gods (a 5-mile walking trail) meanders through the mountains above the sea.
Once we arrived in Positano, our driver headed up, up, up higher in the hills, on even more narrow roads, to an unforgettable experience for lunch.
High above Positano, our lunch reservation at La Tagliata came with incredible views. This charming family-run restaurant treated us like family. If you get anywhere near Positano, plan to have a meal here!
There was no set menu, but delicious food and wine just kept coming! We dined on platters of antipasto, salads, meats, Italian pastas, fruit, and a dessert sampler. Complimentary Limoncello rounded off our lunch!
Our view from La Tagliata overlooking Positano’s shoreline on the right (below)
After a yummy lunch, you can walk-off some calories climbing around Positano! Climbing is the key word here with over 1700 vertical steps. We were dropped off above the city and met our driver Back. At. The. Top.
Positano is the jewel of Italy’s Amalfi Coast. Ancient Romans originally built luxurious summer villas here. By the 9th century, pastel mansions, an important port, fish markets, a trading hub, and a Benedictine Abbey filled the hillsides.
Positano later fortified its walls and added watch towers to defend attacks by pirates and other villages, including Pisa. It flourished as a trading port. Now it is also a beautiful seaside escape for travelers.
Enjoy Positano as you descend steps and narrow streets lined with colorful pottery and art shops, cafes, and boutiques. We bought ceramic pitchers, platters and cruets for olive oil. Most of my Positano keepsakes have a lemon theme.
If you need a shoe fix, Positano is also known for their handmade sandal and shoe stores.
One of Positano’s iconic buildings is the Chisea di Santa Maria Assunta church and its Majolica-tiled dome. Original Roman ruins surround the church.
Vivid Wisteria and Bougainvillea vines climb all over villas, hedgerows and stairways.
One of our daughter’s creative projects on this trip was to document her UT gnome traveling all over Italy.
(Funny note: The sweet owners of La Tagliata spotted her gnome and were thrilled to show us their Tennessee Elvis license plate proudly displayed in their restaurant). It IS a small world!
If you haven’t planned for a day of sunbathing, at least make it down to the pebbled beach and put your toes into the Mediterranean Sea. We did!
And finally, gelato strengthened us to hike back to the top of Positano to meet our guide and return to Rome. What a day!
We haven’t forgotten this remarkable day! If you happen to be in Italy and get the chance to visit Pompeii or the Amalfi Coast, you won’t regret it!
Beyond Positano on the Amalfi Coast you’ll find other charming seaside villages: Praiano, Ravello, Amalfi (the town), Vietri sul Mare, and Salerno.
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Stay tuned for upcoming blogs on Florence, Pisa and Venice, Italy. Plus, “mileage treat bags for long roadtrips.” Until then, keep exploring!
Resources:
– https://aaa.com
– https://monograms.com
– https://viator.com
– https://latagliata.com
traveltipsbytami.com
Tami Kooch
Tis trip was amazing and worth every minute. The value our guide brought to our small group increased understanding of the history and culture of this section of Italy.
It was a great day!
The Almafi Coast is indeed beautiful; however, we wonder if seeing it by boat would be better as we really couldn’t see it very well from the road in a van or even when we stopped at a tourist location. We were disappointed to not experience the full beauty of this place.
Good point Jan! While part of the experience of traveling the Amalfi Coast is “literally” being on the windy roads and stopping to visit each village, seeing it by boat would be an awesome perspective. It is very hard to capture beauty from behind a glass van window. Our driver was great to stop often, and he encouraged us to swap seats (5 of us in a Mercedes van) and roll down windows for photo ops. Having lunch overlooking Positano and the gorgeous water made our trip. For us, we had ONE day to hit the highlights: Pompeii, Sorrento, the coast, and Positano. It was the teaser to make us want to go back, spend more time on the entire Amalfi Coast exploring each village–beginning to end–and to go to Capri. Seeing it via boat sounds like a great idea!